Friday, March 8, 2019

Camiguin Island

Last year i almost visited the island of Camiguin (pronounced Come-Again) … cute, huh?     This year i made a promise to myself to get there.   I met Glen, from Australia 2 years ago in the Philippines, and he is now living on Camiguin.   So, i made plans to visit the island, and he offered to ‘show me around’ when i got there.    Map from Panglao to Tagbilarian Bus Terminal.  Bus to Jagna, and ferry to Camigun


I had made a reservation a week ago at a place, and at 10pm the night before i left, decided i wasn’t comfortable with their reviews and spent a lot of time researching and rebooking, only 28 min before my cancellation date, whew, that was cutting it close.   Hopefully i get a full refund

Kevin offered to drop me off at the bus station on the way to take Viana to school.   I boarded a bus for Jagna, and arrived 1.5hrs later.   Way earlier than the ferry was leaving, but that’s the way i like it, … no rush, no stress.    I actually had a burger at McDonalds…still not sure why, i guess because i was so surprised it was there, in such a small town.   They have a 2story market here, with room in the center for community events, and Badminten, i was told, by my lady-friend who insisted i sit and visit with her for awhile.   People here are really friendly and like to visit with tourists.


And also noticed this guy making paper bags from newspaper… yeah, no plastic !   He was amused that i wanted to know how he did it, but obliged me, and no, i don't think i can duplicate it  :(



We boarded the ferry at 12 noon.   This is a RoRo Ferry … Roll on Roll off, meaning you can drive vehicles on it.   So it’s big and sturdy.   It departed 2min early at 1pm, we had calm seas, and arrived in Camiguin promptly at 4pm.

I was immediately impressed as i left the ferry dock and saw this sign  :)



At the ferry port, I took a tricycle to July’s SeaSide Haven.   I was lucky and got the ‘end’ room, which is always a bonus, since that means and extra window and more light … and … i’m right next to the beach!  …and, my own personal bathroom and hot water shower, a/c … $22/night whoop whoop.   No air needed, i opened the windows and listened to the surf all night.  Honestly, I could have stayed here much longer.   As it was, i booked for 4 nights, and stayed an extra 2....that's all the pills i had brought with me :(


Really nice little place with great hosts; and oh eggs, bacon, toast and jam included every morning !



Camiguin is known as the Island Born of Fire.  It is hard to imagine that this island measuring 14miles x 9miles, with a circumference of only 40miles, can have SEVEN volcanoes.     Mt Hibok Hibok is over 5,000ft, and considered ‘active’.    It constantly rumbled and smoked from 1948-1952.   In 1948 there was a minor eruption, but in 1949 it caused 49 deaths.   On Dec 4, 1951 it really erupted and 3,000 people were killed.   The population of Camiguin was 69,000, but dropped to 34,000 due to mass exodus from the island.   2015 census was at 88,000

Camiguin is within the Pacific Ocean Ring of Fire.  The ‘Ring’ includes more than 450 volcanoes. It stretches for nearly 25,000 miles, running in the shape of a horseshoe (as opposed to an actual ring).    Map .. notice  Mt. St. Helens is on there


This is a volcanic island, so the beaches here are not white sand, but brown/black like in Dauin.  My first sunset. 


Glen picked me up on his motorbike, ....with an extra helmet for  me.   We went to dinner at Kurma’s, right on the sea.  It used to be a Scuba Dive center, but is now for FreeDivers and Yogies  :)

I said i met him 2 years ago:  one day on a dive boat, and we met later for sunset, had dinner and went to a great bar; ....and i left the next day.    We'd comment back and forth on FaceBook occasionally since then.   So, i really didn't know him very well.   But that is how it goes when you meet people while you are traveling.   I will be forever grateful to him for his time.  He could have just recommended places on a map, maybe meet for dinner a time or two, and let it go at that.   He has a sweet, beautiful Philippino 'girlfriend', Apple, and is building a house.   But still, he was so very generous with his time, taking me by motor bike to all the ‘hot spots’ on the island.   And there are a lot of them!   I wonder sometimes how i can ever repay people who have been so helpful to me while i'm traveling.   Here is a map showing all of the 'attractions' this small island has to offer.



At 9am he picked me up again, we started touring the island.   I was a bit uncomfortable on the bike at first, but by the end of the trip i could have almost gone ‘no-handed’  :)

Camiguin is a beautiful island because of all the volcanoes, it is lush and green, ...and clean.   I was pleasantly surprised at how clean and orderly it is.

Some history:  February 16, 1871, earthquakes began to be felt on the island, and increased in severity until April 30, when a volcanic fissure opened up.  Mt. Vulcan was born and continued erupting pouring lava into the sea while gaining in height and width.  In 1875, the Challenger Expedition described the mountain as a dome, 1,950 ft in height, without any crater, but still smoking and incandescent at the top.

When Mt. Vulcan erupted, it submerged the town of Catarman, pushing it, and it’s Cemetery, below the sea.    Now known as 'The Sunken Cemetry".   This cross was erected in 1982.   Somehow i neglected to take a photo, so this is from the internet  :(


and we actually snorkeled the Cemetery and saw the original cross out in the water, on it’s side visible at low tide.   Again, this photo is 'stolen' from the internet :(


It is advertised as a spooky dive/snorkel expedition.  I envisioned snorkeling in, out, and around gravestone markers; and i am sure that years ago that was true.    But in 148 years, the coral has claimed them, and this is the only marker that is still distinguishable; i assume with a little help  :)    And yes, i did manage to think to take this photo.


We had a Snorkel Guide (required), and had a nice 1hr snorkel here.    I was surprised to see several Giant Clams ....

They really are fascinating




One more beautiful than the next


Our Guide found a Blue Velvet HeadShield Slug for us


...and a i saw this Banded SeaSnake


The only thing left of the original town is a wall of the church, part of the bell tower, and part of the convent.   And now,  this huge 100yr old tree




We stopped at the Bura Natural Soda Water Spring.  It is the only soda water pool in the Philippines.  They are sulfur-rich, good for body aches and skin problems.   This one was a comfortable ‘swimming’ temperature.

We ate lunch at the Bee Farm, which i right on the water, between the Cemetary and the Soda Water Springs.  Glen is very outgoing, ...giving a cheery ‘hello’ with a big smile, to everyone he passes by.   It is no surprise that after a year, he already has many friends on the island, both locals and expats; including the Bee Farm owners and all their staff.   They have done an awesome job of making tables, chairs, railings, and terraces out of drift wood that was collected from the sea.   Photos didn't do it justice, use your imagination



We also visited the Kabila Giant Clam Sanctuary and Ocean Nursery where seven of the world’s nine known Giant Clam species are found.   I have to include this video, which Glen made sure i was ready for.   These kids are so sweet and articulate !    I have trouble understanding them, but their efforts, and hand-gestures are priceless !   You'll have to go to YouTube to see this one:  https://youtu.be/R8ZOER9mdq8


You can snorkel here, but i didn't want to have to rush, so thought i'd return another day without Glen.


With 7 volcanos, covered with many different beautiful trees, (which Glen knew the names of), plus thousands of coconut trees and ferns; there are many beautiful refreshing WaterFalls.   We visited Katibawasan which cascades 250 ft down to a pool surrounded by orchids and ferns.   It’s an invigorating dip, which i did not partake.   But here is my requisite WaterFalls photo, compliments of my private guide, driver, and photographer, Glen  :)



We also visited Tuasan Falls.     This falls is not as tall, and i can't find any measurement, but there is considerably more water falling than at Katibawasan Falls ... it was loud and powerful !     I don't think you would want to stand under it


Originally, to reach the falls, you had a scenic hike along a rocky river bed.  But in 2012, in order to enhance tourist, the government began to build a road all the way up to the falls.   It opened in 2014, and the parking lot is gigantic, enough for a major theme park.   And this is only a small part of the road, it continues, cutting through the mountains from one side to the other, a “Trans Island Highway”.  And they didn’t do this ‘half-assed’, it looks like a super-highway .. and an eye-sore to the beauty of the mountain, leaving behind lots of unnecessary destruction.  Possibly they should have done a geological survey because the exposed hillsides continue to slide down to the road, requiring continued maintenance (no doubt big money for someone).     A simple road would  have done the job.   I will say, however, that all their roads are very well maintained; .... in perfect condition.  

Glen dropped me off at the Ardent Hibok-Hibok Mineral Hot Springs one day.   "Wisps of steam can be seen rising from the running waters heat by the cauldron of the mountain"
Well, that's what the literature tells you, however, the last several years it has cooled down.   I was in for awhile, and it was warm,  but i was expecting HOT.
 

It is a very nice area, and you can actually rent cottages there.   I was in for awhile, and then had to get out, because i was getting chilled (it was shady too).    But i had a nice lunch there, relaxed, and then took a Habal-Habal home.


I gave Glen the 'day off' and I hired a Habal-Habal (motorbike) to take me to SoulDivers, to do 2 dives at Mantigue Island, about a 1/2hr boat ride east of the Camiguin.   On one of our trips, Glen took me up the side of this volcano for this view.  You can see Mantigue Island in the distance in the photo below.   And yes, those are Zip Lines, and No, i did not Zip  :)     Evidently this bay is SeaFood Heaven, with a good restaurant.


Mantigue is a pretty little island, and a Marine Sanctuary, that you can walk around in less than 20min.  It supposedly does not have any inhabitants, ...but i walked around it, and ...it does.   I asked, and was told the government is in the process of building them homes on Camiguin where they will be relocated.


You can get a good view of this side of Camiguin from here


It has beautiful white beaches, which are a striking contrast with the dark volcanic sands of Camiguin.   I understand the snorkeling is very good here.


Pity i did not snorkel.   The 2 dives i did were not that impressive; and i later learned that this is not the place to dive... research research research  :(      The Guide said they usually see 15-20 turtles diving; we saw 2.   There were a lot of schools of fish.   It was a drift dive, which means you just drift with the current, and don't move around alot.   Which also means you are not generating any 'heat', and i was cold on both dives, all of us were.   It is the kind of dive, that in the past, have made me think that i didn't really need to dive; snorkeling is better.   No photos because i've been having trouble with my camera, and it failed me on both dives.   Thankfully, there wasn't much to photograph anyway.

We spent almost 2hrs on the Island, which was 1.5hrs too long for me.   I had intended to go back to the Clam Sanctuary and snorkel and then go to a SeaFood Restaurant by the ZipLine.   But we were so late, that i decided to just go back home.   i tried to get a tricycle or jeep to take me back; but none would pick me up.   I've obviously lost my 'touch'... so i called the same guy that took me there and told him i had started walking.   He found me on the side of the road and took me home.


I found a great pizza at Luna Restaurant, with 'real' Italian Sausage!     And had a nice sunset dinner on the sea another night



I was invited to Glen and Apple's property where they are building a large home.   It is up the mountain, but it's tall enough that they will be able to see the water from the top floor.   We climbed up to the second floor, but no further.   They have lots of banana and coconut trees, and are planting many other trees.    I can tell that Apple is a 'gardener'... she loves planting flowers and veggies.   It's going to be an amazing place in a year or so.



My last day i visited the popular 'White Island'.   It is about a 10min (expensive) boat ride from close to where i stayed.   It later occurred to me, it was the same price as the 4hr Ferry coming here !


It is a pretty little sandbar, larger or smaller, depending on the tide.  At times it's in the shape of the letter C, sometimes the letter I.    People get really excited about it.    Families, umbrellas, tables, chairs, food; and stay for the day.   



I managed to entertain myself for an hour.


Mt.Hibok-Hibok and Old Vulcan as its backdrop are it's backdrop. 


This 6" tall piece of coral caught eye as i was walking around


I looked inside the pretty shell on top, and it had a few grains of sand inside ... i thought it was cool and i was rather bored



Our dinner the last night i was there



The Ferry departed at 8am, sharp.   We had really big Roll on Roll Offs on this trip



They have food-snacks on the Ferry and then they come around with this freshly fried and sugared Banana.    It was good !   Reminded me of my favorite Elephant Ears ... only 'healthier'   :)


The seas were calm and the currents were with us.   It only took 3hrs, instead of 4.   When i got off the Ferry at Jagna, i could help but notice how organized they were preparing for their next shipments.   In the 'Breakable Cargoes' section ... yes those are eggs piled up in the sun, in the 90 degree weather



i truly loved my visit to Camiguin.      It is clean, orderly, and well maintained; they have laws and people follow them.   The people are so friendly and i don’t believe there is any crime there.   I really enjoyed my time.    Most people will tell you that 2 days is enough time to see the island.    i would disagree, and it's so quiet and peaceful.






Saturday, March 2, 2019

Back to Bohol-Panglao-Alona Beach


I returned to my Philippino ‘home’ after leaving Dauin.    It is always so nice to be greeted with hugs and smiles :)
I spent most of my time working on my Blog.   Pat and i got up most mornings a 5am and walked down to the beaching, logging in around 8,000 steps, and watching the sun rise. 


There had been a bank of clouds on the horizon, but all of a sudden i noticed a small bright orange crescent shape peeking out of the water under the bank of clouds.   it was amazing how quickly it rose and then disappeared into the clouds.      It was like a reverse sunset!   Nice way to start the day !

One evening i asked Pat if she wanted to walk down to the beach road again because i wanted to buy some ‘shoo-my’ for appetizers.   i discovered these little morsels a couple days ago, and i am addicted.   They are little pastry cups filled with pork+something-i-probably-don’t-want-to-know, and then steamed.   Then they drizzle this spiced concoction on them, with a pinch of soy sauce, and serve with a half of a special little lime they have here.   Delicious!     If you read upside down, you can see they are spelled Siomai ...


 There are also several other food vendors lined up on the street and one was frying some kind of breaded meat on a stick.   i asked Pat what it was and i heard her say chicken.   i got 3 of them.   she watched as i ate the first one…not bad, and in the middle of the second one she said something about Intestines … i halted mid-chew and looked at her.   She was laughing.  Yes, i was eating Chicken Intestines!   i didn’t finish the 3rd one.   We walked to the next vendor and examined their offerings.

Chicken Feet, on the left, which had seen before; and next to that is the Chicken HEAD; and next to that, the meticulously folded and skewered Intestines, like i had just consumed.  All breaded and fried.    i’ve always thought if you put some batter, grease and salt on anything it could be eaten.   But you aren’t going to get me to try the Heads …. eyes, beak, brains and all … Yuck!    While we are on the strange eating delicacies of other countries, i don’t think i’ve ever reported on Balut, even though i’ve seen them in the past.  Balut is a developing bird (usually duck) embryo, incubated for a 14-21 days.   By this point, the embryo will have become distinctly duck-like, sometimes complete with body parts like eyes, beaks, and feathers. It is is boiled and eaten from the shell. It originated from and is commonly sold as street food in the Philippines, often served with beer.   i see them being sold along the streets everywhere.   Sorry,.... that is disgusting !

I did another dive with my favorite guys at GoScuba Dive Shop on Alona Beach.   They have a new owner, and have made a lot of improvements, plus new equipment.   Ricky was our Guide for the dive.  We saw this Electric Flame Scallop, or ‘Disco Scallop’  :) … about 3”.  those tiny blue lines, that look like electric sparks, are a reflective tissue that they cover and uncover, which appears like flashing.   It's pretty cool to watch !


He found another type of shrimp that i had not seen before.  Check out those red and white eyes!   It is an Anemone Shrimp - Periclimenes sarasvati

As i was looking at the photo, i noticed something strange and enlarged it enough to see what i thought looked like EGGS inside it's belly !! ??     Can you see them?


Several years ago i joined a FaceBook Group, "ID Marine Creatures".   Members can post photos of something they’ve seen, and some incredibly-smart-individuals will tell you what is.   I submitted my photo, and i was right … they are it’s EGGS !

Occasionally i have used their ‘services’, always impressed by there knowledge.   But recently i’ve made several requests, which generated a lot of conversation/comments.    The other day i received a FaceBook message from them.   “Congratulations:  you are a Conversation Starter”, you and 9 others created the most engaging posts in the past month.”    WoW,  i am a celebrity  :)


We also saw another Sea Moth like i saw in Dauin, this time got a video of it.  This one is really camouflated.


Video here, or on YouTube:   https://youtu.be/Ial-m7fTu6c



This is another Nudibranch … a Red Gill Nembrotha.  It is best recognized by its bright red rhinophores, aka horns


i keep trying to get a photo of their ‘mouth’  … still unsuccessful.   But i noticed from the photo, you can see it's characteristic blue colored under body, very different from their 'back' ...


Usually Nudis are able to retract their gills into a pocket in their body, however the Red-Gilled Nembrotha is unable to retract its gills.



These are Clavelina fusca, or Tunicates or Sea Squirts, because they take in water and nutrients in one siphon and 'squirt' it out the other.   They come in different shapes, and these remind me of someone singing, or organ pipes … and i love the bright blue color, very striking !



I saw litle one at the very end of our dive while we were in the shallows, about 2" long.   It is a Steinitz' ShrimpGoby characterized by it's dark pupils.    Better to see you with, My Dear.   These are the Gobys that have a full-time-housekeeper Shrimp-friend that continuously digs their burrow.   The lesson on that, was last year  :)    If you want a review, or missed it, it's from the February 2018, Cabilao Island Blog 


Odds and Ends:
Some info on the Nudi that i saw in Dauin that i didn't have any info on.   Now, thanks to my FaceBook ID group, i do.   It is a 'Blue Dragon', or Pteraeolidia spp.   This is an extremely elongate species for a Nudibranch.   And, it can inflict a painful sting to humans.

It is also called a 'Solar Powered Sea Slug, because it can photosynthesis.   The algae manufacture food and pass a significant amount on to the Nudibranch.  It is also able to detach a portion of its body to free itself from a predator; and later, regenerate the missing portion.



Also, Phil sent me a couple of photos of our amazing visit to Dauin, which took 4 blogs to complete.    This is me ... at The Pier, our favorite Dive Site in Dauin, along side of one of the giant pier pillars covered with all kinds of creatures.   Photo is compliments of Phil.



Our amazing Dive Guide, Gien, Me, and Phil, with the Dive Sites of Dauin



Phil and Oliver and the 'girls' from the AivyMaes Diver Paradise



and on to the next adventure ... Camiguin Island is up next