Thursday, October 5, 2017

Arrival and First Day 1 Sep 2017

i arrived at the Hostel in San Diego around 10am, and i met Christina from Germany.   i invited myself to accompany her on a walk to the sea.    Little did i know it would be an 8.4 mile walk, almost totally uphill.   i do believe i had not properly trained for such an excursion; but happy that i went. i’ve only been to San Diego once before, and had no idea it had such a rugged coastline.  It was beautiful !



the next morning, 6am at a Holiday Inn, we met Meghann and Serena, the 2 women who would take care of us.   Meghann’s father was a professor in the 1970s and wanted a place where he could teach field biology courses;  and started the Field Station in Baja.    Meghann grew up on the Sea of Cortez, listening to her father lecture his college students since she could crawl.   She is a wonderful woman, and i immediately felt like i was in good hands.     She said they had been tracking the impending Tropical Storm Lidia and would continue to make decisions along the way.   If she became a problem, we would stop and spend the night before we got there  :(     …but so far, it looked like the area where we are going is just on the edge of the storm.

The group was made up of students, ranging from 21 to 30, and many of them knew each other from Miami University of Ohio’s Global Field Program.   There were 2 sisters, a couple, a group from Phoenix, some had been involved in other programs together, and some had been to this Field Station for other projects, so they knew Meghann and Serena.
  
so besides being the only one there without a ‘past connection’, i was by far the oldest.   that doesn’t usually bother me, but when everyone else is engaged in ‘catching up’ with old friends, it is a bit difficult at first.   lots of chattering, and yes, i tried to be subtle as i put my ear plugs in  :)

Immigration in Tijuana was clean, fast and easy.    then, we headed through Tijuana and picked up 2 brothers who were also part of the ‘team’ that took care of us.  

One of the reasons i was so excited about this trip, was the opportunity to see a new and different terrain.   I'm used to lush green locations on my snorkeling adventures, so the idea of a desert and cactus, really enticed me!   I took the Co-Pilot Seat so i could get a good view of this terrain, plus have a little less noise from the conversations.  :)  
We followed the coast, it was beautiful…. you can see how the mist was coming off the water and it traveled a long way inland as well.

we drove through dry mountains and hills that reminded me of Wyoming.   It was hot and dry, but we did have AC in the vans :)

Finally, at 1pm, they said we were about half way and we stopped in San Quintin (not the prison), and i saw this map on a wall on the sidewalk, showing the route we were taking

In all the little towns along the way, there were places advertising Fish Tacos.    Fish Tacos had been our motivation for the last 6 hours.   Our staff said these were the ‘best’ and they absolutely were right.    So many fish tacos have a few shredded pieces of fish, but not THIS place … they had entire fillets frying and they put an entire fillet on each taco.


Then back on the road, after El Rosario, we headed inland … into the desert !   It was awesome


i LOVED seeing all the different cactus.   that is a Cholla in the forefront.


we made a short stop for some photos


this is a Cirrio cactus, spiky and very tall.  it actually is not a cactus, but a tree.   it has root-like fibers on the top so i can take advantage of any moisture in the air … pretty cool !   It's real name is the Boojum Tree.  They can grow to a height of 60 feet, and is nearly endemic to the Baja California Peninsula.  It is one of the slowest growing plants in the world, at a rate of 1 foot every 10 years.

as you can see from this photo, you wouldn't want to give it a big hug !


we had a bit of trouble with the van, which was worry-some; but the ‘guys’ knew how to fix it and we were on our way again.

we traveled through more cactus in a huge boulder field that stretched miles and miles.   it was dramatic.   i read that the cactus here can grow larger because any rain that hits the rocks, falls to the ground, giving the cactus more water than if there were no boulders.


we arrived in Bahia de los Angeles at 7:30pm, just after dark…… it only took us a little over 12 hours  :)   obviously we couldn’t see much, but we got a short tour and orientation on how to use the ‘bucket-flush-toilets’ in the small building out back.


and also how to take a 3-cup fresh-water shower, i.e., you take a cup of water out of a 5 gallon bucket and pour it over your head and body;  only 3 of these cups was recommended  :(       ...we have running water, but it is a precious commodity.

we were also introduced to our canvas cots that we could take outdoors, which everyone decided to do because it was very very hot in the building, especially since it had been closed up for several days.


there was still a chance of rain, so i chose a spot close to the overhang of the ‘garage’ so if it rained i could duck inside.     by the time i got settled and laid down, i felt sprinkles on my feet.   i decided to move inside the garage.   i feel asleep to waves breaking on the shore.    awesome !

sometime during the night, i vaguely remembered people moving indoors, and realized i could no longer hear the waves … that was because all i could hear was the raging wind and rain .... Tropical Storm Lidia had arrived   :(
about 5am i decided to see if i could find where they told us the toilets were … i put my headlamp on and noticed that my sandals were FLOATING in water.   was i in TEXAS ????????????

people and cots were everywhere because everyone had moved indoors.    i went into another room and it too was flooded.    i went back to my cot and realized that part of my sheet had draped to the floor and had been wicking water, and the spray from the wind and rain was inside the garage…time to move.   i found a spot on the hard wooden table and tried to go back to sleep to no avail.  
about that time some people were waking up and i was up too.  i found some other girls and we started mopping and squeegy-ing the floors, but the water was just coming right back in.  Time for my problem-solving 'maintenance' skills to kick in.
i got a shovel and started digging a trench and found some tiles to divert the water that was dripping from the roof-line and causing the water to come in the door.     Everyone was quite impressed at my 'engineering' skills   :)

Several hours later, Natalie and i had it under control and the fans running to dry the floor.  

We had a briefing of our activities and a tutorial of the routine, should the seas clear and be calm enough for us to get out there tomorrow. 


The rest of the day was devoted to puzzles and games ... you can also see in this photo that the walls have been 'decorated' over the years by the many groups that have enjoyed this Research Station.

The sea was extremely rough and it continued to rain.   Finally clearing up around noon, we now could see the islands in the distance.  


 we took a walk along the shore


found this poor little, 2 foot, Mobula Ray, ....apparently stranded after being tossed onto the rocks by the raging sea  :(
We saw several of these flapping their 'wings' on the surface of the water and also jumping out of the water while we were there ... they were very cool !

....and a trip to Guerillmo’s for Margaritas occupied the rest of the day.    Plus i am learning new things on my iPhone from the young folks ... like Pano  photos  :)



today was definitely NOT what anyone had expected, but everyone remained positive and enthusiastic.  
Meghann said she has NEVER seen the seas like this in all the time she grew up  here!     it is usually like bath water  :)


we all looked forward to a better day in the morning !

Sunday, September 10, 2017

Whale Shark Research Sep 2017

Intro

I have signed up to be a 'Citizen Researcher' for the non-profit Vermilion Sea Institute.   Their Mission is to foster sustainable relationships between societies and ecosystems.   The Institute Field Station is on the Baja Peninsula in Mexico, within the Bahía de los Ángeles Biosphere reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Program is called Stars to the Sea and we will be midway down the Mexican Baja peninsula and working in the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California) with Whale Sharks.


The definition of the word ‘Vermilion’ is a 'brilliant red pigment made from mercury sulfide (cinnabar).'   I had to look this up  :)    Vermilion was given it’s name in the 1990s because of the spectacular colors that paint the bay each sunrise and sunset.  

The Field Station was originally the headquarters for gold and silver mining.  The main building has 12 large rooms including a large kitchen, classroom, labs, offices, and rooms for changing and storing personal items.   The south end of the building has a large storage garage, with kayaks, BBQ grill, 30+ dormitory-style comfortable canvas cots (this is where i will be sleeping) ...either inside or outside under the stars.  oh, did i mention outdoor bucket-flush toilets!    i know this is not what most of you would consider a ‘vacation’   :)     There is a large ocean front veranda and fully-articulated fin whale skeleton.

So this will be my home while i am there




Why am and i doing this?    Some of you may remember that for a month+ for 2 winters i volunteered in Utila, Honduras at the Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Center (WSORC).     So i am no stranger to the Whale Shark.   i actually spent those 2 winters NEVER seeing a Whale Shark and was almost convinced that they were just a ‘myth’.  
Finally the 3rd time i was there, i had an opportunity to get into the water twice, VERY BRIEFLY, with a small Whale Shark.   It only made me want more  :)

What does a Whale Shark look like ?


They are known as the Gentle Giants of the Sea, they are the largest fish on Earth.   And yes, they are a Shark, not a Whale.     They are capable of covering several thousand kilometers across the ocean in a single year!    Despite their enormous size, up to 40 feet, they are filter-feeders making meals of some of the tiniest creatures on Earth – plankton.

The Whale Sharks visit these waters en masse throughout the summer and fall months.   Each Whale Shark has unique, behind-the-gill-spots; like a fingerprint. The Stars to the Sea project uses innovative technology that applies spot-pattern-recognition algorithms – used by astronomers to recognize celestial patterns in the night sky – to identify individual Whale Sharks.  Through my week-long program, they will train us to correctly capture photographs of Whale Sharks to help gather more information on this little known fish.

There is no phone service and only some undependable internet.   But i will continue to record my adventure and send the results when i return.


Here is hoping for good weather and cooperative Whale Sharks !

Monday, April 10, 2017

Ko Samui, Thailand


In the morning i took the 11am Lomprayha Fast Boat from Ko Pha Ngan to Ko Samui.    I have to say i was really impressed with their streamline efficiency in organizing everyone and getting the luggage and people on the right buses to their final destination.   A lot of these tour/transportation organizations are putting 'stickers' on you with your destination.   i LOVE it!     I'm always afraid i'll get on the wrong boat/bus; i wear my sticker proudly !   It was a wonderful experience !

Arrived at Moonhut Bungalows before 1pm and let the "Dawson Clan" from Kalamazoo know that i had arrived.    They said, 'we’re at the pool, come on over'.

I had tried to book a place near where they were staying and it worked out well.    I was just a 10min walk down the beach to their resort.   My Bungalow was similar to the other bungalows i’ve had.    Small and efficient; no A/C this time but a fierce powerful fan; which was needed ... it is really 'heating up' here in the tropics !


I spent the next several days ‘living the life’.    The Dawson’s adopted me into their ‘Clan’ and it was wonderful visiting with Americans, especially FRIENDS, half way around the world!       I enjoyed some 'resort living'; and joining them for dinners/tours/trips/pool/gym.     Most of those things i don’t get to do being a single traveler.


When we arrived, the seas were really quite rough.   I wasn’t sure if that was normal, or if a storm was coming in .   Unfortunately, it was a storm coming in.   After our first sunny Pool Day, the weather turned nasty.    We had an entire day of pouring down rain and cool weather.     I was ‘home’ working on a blog, sitting in the restaurant area with my sweatshirt and socks on !

The weather forecast showed ThunderStorms each day for the next 2 weeks.   Thankfully it was wrong.   The next day the weather cleared a bit and we went to a huge ‘mall-market’ that was within walking distance of Chaweng Beach.   We walked the mall for awhile then headed for the beach.   This beach is more open and the waves were coming in strong enough for people to be ‘surfing’.

As we started walking the beach, Terri noticed all these ‘round blue things’ on the shore.


They were everywhere, and thousands of them.

I assumed they were some type of JellyFish, and later confirmed they are in the Rhizostomea family of JellyFish, which do not sting.   But i’ve not been able to find out much else other than they can get as big as a soccer ball and frequently wash up on shore.    The only name i could find for them is  "Blue Button Jelly Fish",  i like it   :(

We had a few drinks sitting in the sand at one of the many beach bars.    We managed to find a quiet one that didn’t have boom boom boom base music blaring   :)



We did a Snorkel Tour over to the neighboring island of Ko Tao.      It was with a ‘Dive Boat’ and we went to 2 sites that were said to be the best around Ko Tao.    I’m a little bit 'spoil-t’.    After 3 months of traveling the ‘best’ snorkel spots in 3 countries, my ‘bar’ is set a little bit ‘high’.    So, i was not as impressed as the rest of the group, but as i always say, ,,,,,  ‘a day in the water is better than any day out of the water’.    So i was happy.

And i even met my goal of meeting some new fishes, so it was a successful snorkel.

This is a new fish, a Trevally…. usually found in deeper waters.   He was just cruising by.   Deep water fishes typically are not very colorful.


I have posted several photos of the Male Sling Jaw Wrasse, but never one with this beautiful coloring and markings … stunning !      In this photo, you can really see how the jaw can separate.  I also saw the Yellow Female ‘sling’ her jaw out for the first time  :)


I’ve seen these Parrot Fish before, but never in such vibrant colors, a Blue Barred ParrotFish

and check out those teeth ... no wonder it's called a 'Parrot' Fish !



There were more Christmas Tree Worms on the coral than i’ve ever seen anywhere!


I’ve seen this Red Breasted Wrasse many many times, but he is a quick one, and i don’t think i’ve ever posted a photo

Lots of pretty Clams here too ..




There was one area with a lot of Anemone’s …. along with their Nemos


Frequently you also see these Juvenile Three Spot Dascyllus..    They are never IN the Anemone, but hanging around on the outskirts


And my other new fish is this Blue Spotted Trout


This is a Coral RabbitFish .... she has real pretty subtle markings



There were a lot of Mushroom Corals.    Those little white things sticking up are their 'tongues' ready to collect any food that passes by


It was a pretty sunny day and the water was nice and clear …

So sunny and clear in fact, that several people got sunburned, despite lots of sunscreen   :(
Lots of fishes hanging out with us that day.   These are ScissorTail DamselFish 


We made a couple trips to Fisherman’s Village for dinner and the Night Market.     We had a drink at this beach bar that had ‘trampolines’ that you sat on over the sand.  


The food at the Night Market put the Taste of Kalamazoo to shame.   It was massive; but mostly we were ‘afraid' to eat any of the food; and instead opted for a nice restaurant with tables on the beach.

Dawson’s left on 1 April, and was alone again.    I considered taking the ferry over to Ko Tao and spending a few days there trying to find some snorkeling.     But after experiencing the snorkeling on our ‘tour’; and reading more, i nixed the idea.    It would have been another quick 2 day trip, (moving luggage here there and back again); and i was tired of moving.   With the cost of the ferry and a new place to stay that would have been more expensive and not on the beach, plus the doubtfulness of great snorkeling, it just made no sense.

I opted to stay at my Bungalow on the beach and try to get my white legs tanned  :)
I did, however, hate the thought of NOT spending my final days snorkeling  :(


I walked down the beach late one afternoon and tried to find some markets that were open, but not much luck.    I did find one market that had Mangosteen fruit.   Terri and i both wondered what it was, but never had an opportunity to try it.    A nice older woman who spoke good English gave me one and showed me how to eat it.    The white sections were soft and REALLY REALLY sweet ... i like sweet, but one was enough.   

Then i returned to Gaon Korean Restaurant where we all went the first night.    The food was so good and i wanted to try something different.    The dinner was fantastic.       I had an early dinner and was home before dark so i didn’t have to walk the beach alone   :)

Speaking of food, i have a new healthy favorite, Green Papaya Salad.   I am going to attempt to make it when i get home.


We had been having thunderstorms on and off, and it rained my last night and the morning i left ... good timing



I flew from the Ko Samui Airport and had time in between showers to check out their beautiful gardens.      This is called a Cannonball Tree because of the ‘fruit’

 It has large incredibly beautiful flowers


The surroundings gardens were beautiful... the Thai's do love their Lotus Flowers





It took me 38 hours to get home:   Ko Samui into Bangkok at 4pm, left 6am the next morning, into HongKong, Chicago, and Kzoo.    It took me 40 hours to get to the Philippines, so i guess that's about normal.   It was great to be back in the good ole US of A,  ....and seeing all the ‘white’ people, all speaking ‘American’  :)       It is tiring to concentrate to decipher different accents while speaking.

I left for this journey with very little planning.    I booked my flight into the Philippines and out of Thailand.   And i knew i would be staying with Kevin and Family upon arrival, (that was a huge benefit).     Other than that, i didn't know what, when, how, or where i would be in between. 

How many islands?  
9 in the Philippines:  Bohol, Panglao, Balicasag, Siquijor, Apo, Negros, Pamalican, Cebu, and Olanga
3 in Indonesia:   Bali, Gili Air, and Nusa Penida
1 in Malaysia:  A very short stay on Langkawi
5 in Thailand:  Ko Lipe, Ko Kradan, Ko Phangan, Ko Samui, and Ko Tao





18 islands.   Moving like that took a lot of online-time, researching and deciding which island i wanted to go to, which part of the island, which place to stay, and last but not least.... How do i get there ?????

What did i learn ?    
-Moving from place to place every 2-5 days is much more difficult and exhausting, than staying in one place for a month or two as i've been accustomed to.   As the trip progressed, i started spending more time in each location.
-I am a pretty light packer, but i can do much better.   I've already made lists.   The more you have to move with you, the harder it is; and the less likely you are to move.
Both of these are obvious, but ....  sometimes you have to experience it before you truly believe it  :)

Last but not least:  I’ve not done this before, but i kept track of my time in the water.    I was in the water 52 days and logged in 93 hours and 50 minutes underwater !

The purpose of this trip was to 'Find Nemo' and to 'meet new fishes'.     I found him and many of his cousins.   I counted 152 new fishes that i could identify; many other small ones that i could not.     I would have to say:  "mission accomplished"

I enjoyed this part of the world and would like to return.    There are many more islands to explore and fishes to meet.

Thank you all for your support, thoughts, emails, and prayers during my journey  !