Pamilican Island Visit

Since Kim and i were not able to do as much snorkeling on Balicasag as we would have liked, we had time to brainstorm on where we could go next.   

She had a week before she was returning to California, and it was time for me to move on from the Philippines.    One last island remained to be explored before we both left this area.

Pamilican Island reports a nice Marine Sanctuary with good snorkeling.   Maybe we can even snorkel there — legally  :)    It is a bit more difficult to get to, so not so many tourists.

Kim is great at travel research, so she took the 'bull by the horns' and found us a place to stay for 3 nights.    We were cautioned that it was very rustic and primitive.   But since i had just been to Apo Island, ….i knew how to do primitive bathing !    :) 

We agreed to go with it and see how tough we are.   i love that she is ‘game’ for adventure !

I spent 2 nights with Kevin and Nadia and Kim joined us for dinner at a nice restaurant with the best food i’ve had.

In the morning we took a taxi to Baclayon where we got on a boat out to Pamilican Island.  We got on the boat, but sat there for 45min while they continued to load it with supplies.
I don't think i've introduced you to Kim yet ... Here we are on our way to Pamilican Island

Finally on the island, we were escorted to our ‘huts’.     They were RIGHT on the beach, but a bit on the ‘shabby’  side …. not ‘Shabby Chic’  either  !    Mine is on the right, and you an see a restaurant right next door

A room big enough for a bed, and a small aisle to the bathroom

We had a private bath …. no running water here either, and the same set up for toilets and bathing … except this time, they didn’t trust me with a ‘tub’ … i just had a large bucket, the black one in the corner, with ‘fresh’ water in it.    and yes, those are vinyl table cloths for the walls.

And, it was right in the middle of Mary’s.   One of the most popular ‘restaurants’ on the island, (because they had a bar); and where all the local fishermen came to spend their time, starting at about 6am.   Oh, and there was a HUGE wedding party staying in Mary’s rooms too.

ok, let’s see how this goes.   We got settled in, and i was already grumbling about all the noise.   Tiny little hut, with a tiny little porch, on a tiny little island, right on the beach … wouldn’t you expect it to be peaceful and quiet!

i needed to get in the water and calm myself.    I found out that you are not allowed in this Marine Sanctuary either…. without a guide.   They strictly enforce this, if you are caught, it’s a 1000 peso fine  ($20).    So i stayed clear of the Sanctuary  :)

This looks like a project of growing corals.

Lots of Sea Stars

A whole family of bright orange Nemos ~

and an amazing ‘find’  … this tiny little wiggly frilly brown white-spotted ‘girl’  … has to be a girl, she’s so frilly.    She moved so fast, no way could i get a clear photo.   She had this huge white tail with big spots on it, that she flicked back and forth as she wiggled from place to place.   Just brown and white frills !

Almost frantic, she couldn’t make up her mind where she wanted to go.  I tried and tried, but she never stopped moving…. like a marine hummingbird !    Duh, maybe i should take a video  !

I thought it was some kind of Anemone-Clown Fish; but after i returned, i went to my favorite Dive Shop, and Ricky said it was a Juvenile Many Spotted SweetLips !   Sure enough we found the photo; but i never would have found it without his help, i would have been looking in the wrong place.

After i got back, Kim decided it was time for a rum and coke, so she walked 10 steps to Mary’s.    Notice the 5th of rum and 2 litre of coke on the table.   This is what you get when you order a ‘rhum’ and coke.   She ordered 2 rum and cokes, and they came out with 2 bottles of each.     There you go, ….island living !

We watched the beautiful sunset and the wedding right from our porch.

The next morning fate took charge and whipped up the seas again and the current was really strong.  


Kim and i went for a walk around the island.   Our first excitement was seeing these 2 day-old baby pink piglets …. 14 of them !

Poor Mamma, she doesn’t look very happy.   These little piggies are worth a lot of money.   They will probably get 2000 pesos  ($40) each after a few months.   That is a lot of money!

There were also lots of goats and baby goats everywhere.   We saw one that had just been born and one that didn’t make it  :(     We played with these 2 for a while.

It was hot when we returned, and i decided to get in the water and cool off and snorkel towards the Marine Sanctuary, but not go in !    It was a long way down shore and i had to struggle against the current to get back home.   i actually came upon my little frilly girl again and she was still busy moving from here to there and back again. 

I saw 2 more Spanish Dancer Egg Roses, and my first ever bright ORANGE ‘Blue’ Sea Star  …. huh?

and a YELLOW Nemo !    This is the first yellow Nemo i've seen.   They are so damn cute, i can’t resist them !

It was Sunday and that is a big day on the island.   Unfortunately, Cock Fights are widely ‘celebrated’ on most islands here  :(    Around 5pm we walked to the 'arena' where there were tons of people, BBQs, beer, and rum and coke … again, we couldn’t just buy one drink, they only sell an entire 5th and liters of coke  :(       I couldn’t watch the fights, but i can testify that the looser has chicken for dinner  …. barbaric  :(

We ate at Mary’s in the evening and met 2 groups of really fun girls:   one from Germany and one from France.   Rum and cokes made the conversations lively and bonded our friendships quickly.    We were really happy to have met them !

The next day it was windy and rained all day; but it was our last day on the island and if we wanted to snorkel the Sanctuary, we needed to go … in the rain.    We waited, hoping it would clear; but finally at 3:30 we got our guide and headed out.    It was a lot of fun.


i had yet another Sea Snake swim to the surface right in front of me.   A bit later, i went down for a shot of this Male Spotted BoxFish and came almost eye-to-eye with the snake just on the other side of him ,,, yikes !     It's out of focus because the second i noticed the fish i jerked  :)

i saw my first Yellow BoxFish

and my first Solar BoxFish too !     ....this is a female

it was a big day, 2 new fishes  :)


The Big Guy:   Titan TriggerFish

 

We enjoyed the rest of the night with the girls and then had to say goodbye in the morning as we headed back to Alona Beach.

When i got back, Kevin and Nadia were not feeling well, and i didn’t want them to feel like they had to make dinner and entertain me.   So Kim and i had dinner on the beach.   That was my first dinner on the beach, and on my last night there  :)

Balicasag Island - Take 2

Back at Kevin and Nadia’s for 2 nights.   It was nice to be ‘home’ and Nadia said that Viana missed me  :)

I received an email from Kim, who had gone out to Balicasag after leaving Siquijor.    She said the seas were calm, snorkeling was wonderful, she had an extra bed in her room, and ….come on out !    She also 'touted' me with 'I found some Giant Clams!"   Balicasag really had superior snorkeling and when i was there the weather was not cooperative.   Yes!   of course i would love to come back out there and give it another try !

I went to the GoScuba Dive Shop, where i have been making friends while using their reference books; and booked 2 dives with them out to Balicasag Island, and they agreed they would help me get to shore when we were finished, so i could stay there.   i had wanted to do a couple dives out there anyway, so this was a perfect opportunity.   i was to meet there at 8:30 the next morning.

Saturday night Kevin and Nadia had been invited to join a group of their friends at a restaurant on the beach and invited me to join them.   All the girls, and guys, were very nice to me.    It was a fun night meeting everyone!     All those young beautiful dark-haired Philippino girls sitting with their back so straight … and then me  :)

8:30 the next morning i was at the Dive Shop with my bags packed, and happy to be going out to Balicasag Island again.   The closer we got to the island, the more i noticed how rough the waves were.  We stopped at our Dive Site, and …. i really don’t like diving in such rough waters.    The current was strong so we were told to do a ‘negative entry’.   Usually after entry, everyone meets at the surface, gives the ‘ok’ sign, and goes down together.   But when the current is so strong, it is necessary to get to the bottom as soon as you hit the water, and wait down there for everyone.   If not, you would all drift away from each other and never catch up.   i’ve done this before in Belize, so it was not new to me.   But that doesn’t mean i like it  :)    But it was fine, we all met and began as a group.   it was suggested that i leave my camera on the boat and that we fine with me, i had enough to think about; and you know how i feel about that camera anyway.   It was a ‘drift wall dive’ meaning you go along the drop off and look at whatever is there.  But the current was so strong, it was too FAST;  you were not able to enjoy and study what you were seeing.  Plus you feel rushed, it was not relaxing.    But we saw large schools of Jacks and i saw my first Mackeral .. they look like they have a silver helmet on, but it looks dis-jointed from their body…strange!     Also TrumpetFish, a white Nudibranch, several turtles and i can’t remember what else; and have no photos to remind me  :)

The second dive was much nicer.   Also a drift wall dive, but the current was nice and slow.   i enjoyed it very much.   But, it was over too fast.   The other guys that were diving with us were ‘sucking air’.    Meaning they were using up their air fast, not efficient breathers under water.   And when one person gets low on air; everyone has to go up and that’s the end of the dive.    i finished with a half a tank, that always makes you feel a bit ‘cheated’   :(     Actually i finished with a half tank on the first dive too.

The weather wasn’t looking too good; and as soon as i got on the boat after the dive, the other boat was there to pick me up to take me to shore.   It was a whirlwind event:  getting off one boat, onto the next, waves rocking both boats, zipping to the lodge, (now in the rain), running the boat up on the sandy shore, the guy jumping out of the boat, grabbng one of my bags, and then returning to the boat before the next wave hit.     About this time, i am trying to get out of the boat, and a wave hit and i banged my shin on the boat and fell to the sand, with the bag i needed to keep dry in my hand, ...or out of my hand  :(    He hesitated and asked if i was ok, and i said yes, but my shin was already starting to swell.   i picked up my bags, another guy came out to help me and i went directly to the restaurant and asked for a bag of ice.

I found Kim’s cabin with bag of ice in hand, and she ran out to greet me.    i sat with the ice on my leg and we visited for quite awhile.    i was glad i was able to get ice on it right away, it was fine.    We lamented about the fact that once again, the weather turns nasty when i arrive at Balicasag  :(

Huge rolling waves and white caps everywhere!   After several rum and cokes and a nice dinner, we listened to the crashing waves all through the night.

The entire 3 days i was there, the seas were ridiculously rough and it was cloudy and rained off and on.   Absolutely cannot believe my ‘luck’ with the weather since i arrived in January   :(

But that did not deter the 2 ‘professional snorkelers’ from getting in the water.   Not as often as we would have liked, but we did some good snorkeling.


I have posted photos of the large Map Puffer Fish, and Black Spotted Puffer Fish, including the yellow and blue color variations.    This is the White Spotted Puffer Fish

This is a Barred Thick Lip

I recently saw a photo of this anemone with the name:   Magnificent Anemone; and it was !    It was a beautiful bulbus free-flowing 'blob' almost 2 foot in diameter ...  and a very striking color of purple.    Kim pointed this one out to me.

A Flag FileFish, kind of subtle in it's coloring, but nicely marked

These tiny little fishes all swim together in the shape of a 'larger fish', to keep predators away

TeamWork at it's finest.    Pretty cool !

This my first ever Cornet Fish.   i've seen many Trumpet Fish, and knew about the Cornet Fish; but had never seen one.    So, let the orchestra begin !

Of course, several turtles 

i was floating, concentrating, and waiting for a certain fish to reappear, when i realized i was surrounded by small fishes.

Another ButterFly Fish ... a Chevroned ButterFly Fish  .... pretty !

This creature made a slight movement as i was passing over him.   i went back and checked it out.   I spent a lot of time trying to take a photo for identification and this is what i got.   It is some kind of a Mantis Shrimp.    I showed you a pretty green Peacock Mantis Shrimp a few weeks ago and gave a lesson on it   :)     This one was smaller.   Maybe it is a baby, maybe a totally different kind.   It has a very obvious yellow spot, but i didn't find any photos that matched.   His head and periscope eyes are at about 5 o'clock ... you can also see his feet if you put your glasses on.   If not, it just looks like a 'something'

I have taken many photos of this Pacific Bird Wrasse; and have decided this is the best i'm going to get.   Very strange looking fish with a long beek-like nose

This is the same fish in it's Intermediate Stage

I have not seen many large AngelFish here.   It is common to see 3 different kinds in Belize/Honduras.    Most of them here are smaller ... except this one.      This is a Semi-Circle AngelFish.   I actually posted a photo of one of these before, but it was only a 'semi-circle view' of the Semi-Circle AngelFish  :)

Many islands boast of having a Marine Sanctuary.   i immediately think,  what great snorkeling it will be since no fishing is allowed.   Unfortunately, many of these Sanctuaries are OFF LIMITS to snorkelers as well.   ok, i understand that they need to protect the reef from idiots; but we are ‘professionals’ and would never harm a reef or the fishes.   The last time i was here, i obeyed the ‘rules’ and stayed out of the Sanctuary (thanks to my Catholic up-bringing).   But before i got here, Kim had ‘unknowningly’ snorkeled into the area and no one saw her.   She told me that she saw some Giant Clams …. IN the Sanctuary!    Of course, i was anxious to see them too!

So our last full day there, the weather continued to be nasty.   If i was going to see those Giant Clams, the time was now, weather be damned!    The waves were so high they probably wouldn’t be able to see us !     Walking down the beach we were approached by a guy who said he could take us there in his boat for 200 pesos.   We got in the boat, but it seems our communication skills weren’t working and he started taking us away from the Sanctuary.   We insisted he go the other way; so he tried to take us to the other side, still out of the Sanctuary.   We said ok, and on the way, jumped into the water, and the current and waves just happened to take us right into the Sanctuary   :)        He sat in his boat and kept motioning for us to go the other way; but we didn’t see him   :)

It is really great snorkeling in there, and Kim found the Giant Clams again.    They actually were not Giant Clams; at least by the standards of the 5-6 foot ones.    But they were by far much larger than any i have seen so far.    At least 3-4 feet in length.   

You can tell how large they are by the width compared to some of my other clam photos.   This guy looked like he was covered in jewels !

i took a short video of their siphon working ... actually i wasn't sure what it was doing.
My finding:   siphons are the tubular structures that clams use, to feed, respire, reproduce and expel waste into the water,    Well that is multi-functional  !

Our last night there, the locals (about 100 families), had a bi-annual festival; this one for Valentines Day.   They had an AWESOME band and they played good ole American music: 60s-70s all night.   We made new girlfriends

and all danced.   Not many other people danced, except for several little boys … they really had the moves !    It was a great end to our visit.   The Philippinos love American music.    It was great fun !

The next morning the seas were even worse and it was raining.   i got in the water as soon as i woke up, … i had to go one last time.


We scheduled a boat at 2pm back to the mainland, for 1200 pesos.     Keep in mind that when i returned last time i paid 300 pesos.    But this was a ‘private’ boat and we were splitting it.   The weather continued to worsen, and at 3pm the office informed us that the boat that was going to take us was too small for the waves; but another boat captain would take us for an additional 500 pesos, because it would take more gas … whatever …   We had little choice at this point.   So we followed the girl in the rain to another part of the island and we waited.    She eventually returned and said he didn’t want to go because the weather was too bad   :)    But, there was a small boat with some poor snorkelers that had come out there and needed to return, and we could go with them… but that captain wanted 400 pesos each to take us.      We got in the boat, and of course we were the last ones to load, so we were in the front of the boat and i knew all too well what that meant.   We would get getting sprayed all the way in from the waves crashing the boat.  Although we would be getting pulmitted by the wind and the rain anyway.   

Before we took off, i saw the Captain make the ‘sign of the cross’ … not very reassuring  :(

I was on the end and served as the designated ‘windshield’.   My back to the wind, rain and spray; it was an ugly and miserable 45minutes.    i was soaked and cold.    He had to take us to a different ‘landing’ because the waves were too great on the beach were we usually go.   The woman from the lodge told us that he would refund us the difference in what we had already paid.  But he said ‘no’, we would need to get it from her.   Plus we had to pay to take a tricycle back to our beach   :)     

It was an expensive trip back, but we did get back; we were grateful for that. Ah, the joys of invading an island and dealing with the locals.

It didn’t seem much like paradise.

Apo Island Visit

The ‘tour’ was over and the boat was ready to leave.   I got my 2 bags together and was loaded into a very TINY boat like this one, for a trip to shore.

 

The waves were really rolling in by this time; and i was skeptical.   Honestly, i was worried that my bag would not stay dry, but it did!    Those guys know what they are doing !

Apo is a volcanic island, and Liberty Lodge is built right into the side of the hill.

You have quite a few steps just to get to the Lobby.   Then more steps up to my room.   And there were rooms above mine too with more steps.   It was really cool; the steps reminded me of an old castle, all made of stone.

My room was great !

With a little balcony and a great view of the sea

View from the balcony, restaurant below

But as i looked around i realized i did not have a private bathroom, which i thought i had booked.    Back down at the desk i was told it was private, but it was down the hall.   It was just a short distance and that was fine.   But when i opened the door this is what i saw.    A toilet and a ‘tub’.

The toilet was no surprise, many of the toilets here do not have a water tank on the back of them.   After you ‘finish’ there is usually a bucket and a ‘ladel’ somewhere.    Hopefully the bucket has water in it.    So you use the ladel to scoop water into the bowl until it ‘flushes’.     In this case the bucket was in the corner and contained salt water from the sea

This island has limited water, so this is what they have designed.

The tub does contain ‘fresh’ water for bathing… gathered from the rain

You will notice that the sink does not have any faucets on it either.

There is no running water.    They also only have generator electricity, so it operates from 9-11am,  1-3pm, and 6:30-10pm.     And, WiFi was available in the restaurant only, starting at 6pm.  They said the first 10 people could get on…there must have been 75 people staying there.   I tried the entire time to get on line, i even went before 6pm; but was never successful.

It’s pretty much like ‘comfort’ camping  :)     I knew most of this before i booked.    Probably if you book at the ‘resort’ on the island for more $$$, it might be a bit different, but not much.  There are only 3 places on the island to stay unless you want to do a ‘home stay’.

i was anxious to get the salt water off me and get some dry clothes on.    The tub wasn’t very large, i could barely fit in it; but i got washed, rinsed, put cream rinse in my hair.   It was kind of a messy process, but it worked.

It was time for dinner.    3 meals were included with my stay.   Usually, i would prefer to go ‘out’…. but this was really convenient and the food was VERY good!   I had a couple rum and cokes and ordered from the menu.    Watched the sunset on my new little island.   It was very quiet once all the tour boats left

There was a nice breeze so the fact that there was no electricity to run a fan was not a problem.   Some people on trip advisor suggested you bring a battery operated fan, which would be helpful if it was really hot and no breeze (just in case you are thinking about visiting).

The walls between these rooms are nothing more than split bamboo; so you can hear EVERYTHING on both sides of you, plus down the hall.    i woke up in the middle of the night because i swore someone was walking around my bed.   It took me awhile to calm myself and go back to sleep :)  

I know most of you are horrified at this point and this is not your kind of ‘vacation paradise’  …. but i loved it.

In the morning, i had a great breakfast, they call these pancakes, but are really delicious crepes loaded with fruit.   The mangos here are so sweet and tasty !

i took a walk down the beach where the locals are waiting for tourists to arrive for the day

and watched more ‘tours’ and orange clad Chinese invade my paradise

i am glad that the locals understand this sign…. if you kill and eat all the fishes in the sea, and destroy the reef where the turtles live, no one will come to your island, and your income will disappear.

My room is the third little brown one up there   :)

I scheduled a dive for 11am…. we went out in one of those little boats again, sitting on the edge of the boat, with our legs and fins dangling over the side.   We entered the water with a 'side-roll' … this is something they have developed, because it was never taught nor mentioned in any of my PADI diving courses   :)     …you have to be flexible and improvise !

It was a nice wall dive.  Again, disappointment with my camera  :(

This is a Big Long Nose ButterFly Fish, aptly named ... he does have a BIG LONG nose !

a Christmas Tree worm that appears to have an Angel on the Top

This is a pretty little fish called ThreadFin Anthias.   They are all over the reef wall in deeper waters than snorkeling.

It ended with a nice slow drift over top of the most healthy and beautiful soft corals i have ever seen !     Yes, this is a photo of a turtle, but please notice how plentiful and healthy the coral is !

After lunch and a rest, i was in the water again back to the same area where we saw the Dancer.  Of course, i won’t see another one; but it was a good place to snorkel.  


This is a volcanic island, so there are a lot of uneven cliffs falling into the water, lots of recesses to go back in and explore.

It was inside one of these areas where i looked down and saw ANOTHER Spanish Dancer among the coral of the same color  !!!!    

It is rare to see this Nudibranch and now i’ve seen THREE !
Are you kidding me …. how lucky i am !     i took tons of photos again, and i think she finally decided that i was never going to leave if she didn’t dance for me first.     And dance she did …

If you missed the ‘Dumaguete to Apo Island Snorkel’ blog, you can learn more about Spanish Dancer there; i won’t repeat it here.   And you can watch the video on YouTube:   https://youtu.be/aBADZ3hF2CU

i spent a lot of time with the Dancer and it was time to move on.  


i’ve had a glimpse of this Titan TriggerFish several times since i’ve been here, but have never been able to get close enough for a photo.    This guy was a little bit more tolerant of my chasing him through the rocks and reef.

They are the largest of the TriggerFishes, up to 2.5 feet.  This one was probably 1.5 feet

i didn’t get into the water until after 3pm, and i spent so much time with the Dancer and chasing the Titan, it was time for dinner

Early the next morning i walked up to the LightHouse…seemed like a good thing to do.   Many many concrete steps, plus trail walking.  

On the way up i saw many young, and not so young, men walking down.   i assumed they were going to work with the tourists on the beach,  …. until i heard someone behind me walking UP with a HUGE sack full of sand/gravel, then another one carrying 2 cement blocks, and another one carrying 10ft boards !     And i was huffing and puffing just carrying myself up there !

Finally at the top i saw piles and piles of bags and other construction supplies.   

They were building a new LightHouse and of course, had to carry EVERYTHING from the bottom up there.   WoW    Those guys were strong and in shape!    I asked one of the guys at the top; he said they make 6 trips a day.    There was a little ‘camp’ up here, i assume where they all were living.

There really wasn’t anything to see from up there, only a view of the same side of the island you can see from down below.   So other than the knowledge of what was going on up there, it was only exercise.

When i got back i heard the girls in the room next to me talking about the proper use of the bath tub.   i found out i was doing it wrong !    The floor for the toilet was elevated, and the other lower floor had 2 drains in it.   i was NOT supposed to get IN the tub.   i was to stand on the floor where the drains are, and use the ladel to pour water over my head and wash.   It is important not to get soap or cream rinse in the tub.    Whoops ! 

Before i checked out, i apologized to the nice lady at the desk and explained what i had done (she looked horrified).    i suggested that maybe she should tell people when they check in, or there could be a sign, or a picture of the proper use of the tub; because how are people supposed to know.   She looked right at me and kind of laughed and said i was the FIRST person ever to not know !   I am such an American girl !      I still stand by my suggestion, but she thought it was foolish.    Maybe no one else ever admitted what they had done

Another snorkel before i left.    I started back out to the same place.    Last evening the waves were picking up,  but… it was morning and i thought it would be calmer.   i was wrong, the waves were brutal.  i swam back to shore and walked down the beach to the other end where it wasn’t so rough and explored that area again


Another turtle that i saw eating

Finally a photo of a Parrot Fish, that i could actually identify !      This is a Bower’s Parrot Fish

Time to return to eat some lunch and get ready to leave.   i might have enjoyed staying one more night, but time to move on.

Even with all the possible ‘negatives’, i enjoyed it and would return.

I had received a text from Harold’s that they would pick me up at 2pm.    I was ready and went to the shore and looked at the waves.   They were way bigger than yesterday.    I asked that he make 2 trips for me, one with my bags, and one with me.    On the way in, we were sitting pretty low in the water, and i was nervous then, this would be worse.   He agreed and took my bags and returned for me.   On the way out there with me, we got hit with a couple big waves that crashed over our little boat and soaked me.   My bags certainly would have been drenched if they had been in there with us.    When i got into the big boat i checked my bags… they were dry   :)

It was a rather wet ride back to Dauin, but there were places in the boat where you could stay dry.    Most of them already snatched up… but i stayed dry and so did my bags. 

Back in the truck-van, and to Harold’s for a shower and dinner… and WiFi.    There was an older guy playing nice guitar music on the RoofTop tonight.   Lots of old favorites.   He started playing ‘The More I See You’ by Chris Montez !   Any of you remember that song or him?   i still have one of his vinyl albums.    i made some comments after the song, and asked how a Philippino man knows Chris Montez.   He said he was old and from that generation.   How cool was that !

Tomorrow i return by Ocean Jet Ferry at 7:30am to my temporary home at Kevin and Nadia’s.    I was gone 12 days and visited 3 islands.

Signing off from Nemo   :)