Komodo Adventure - Diving

Why Komodo?   Why not?   I’ve always heard about the Komodo Dragons, big scary lizards beasts.   
The idea to visit was in my head last year, but no plans nor research had been done.   I had a couple of weeks to go yet, with nothing else in mind.    And I had been seeing more underwater photos on FaceBook, plus the area is known for giant Manta Rays.   So i planned to do a little diving as well.   After all, it had been almost a week since i’d been in the water!

So where is Komodo Island?    It's an hour plane ride from Bali, among a chain of islands to the East.

The plan evolved slowly since my winter adventure this year went way over-budget… due to my new addiction  :(    So i was careful about where, what and how long.   i changed my plans 3 times.

After much research, it got more complicated
—Komodo National Park includes the islands of Komodo, Rinca, and Padar
—The Komodo Dragon actually lives on Komodo and Rinca Islands; and there are several other islands of interest
—You don’t stay on other islands (the wealthy may) 
—Most people stay on the Island of Flores, in the town of Labuan Bajo and do 1, 2, or 3+ day trips, to the islands or for diving
—It’s a 2hr speed boat ride, or 3.5hrs in a slow (budget) boat to go see anything

I finally decided to spend 5 nights in Labuan Bajo, known to be a rather ‘dirty’ town.   Doing 2 days of diving, with a Dive Shop i had already picked out.  Then finding an inexpensive day trip to see the Dragons.   Then leave.

While i was at Two Fish, 2 girls suggested i check out Scuba Junkie, it might be more affordable and enjoyable because it was on the coast of Flores, in a natural setting, ... no town, no cars, no noise.   That in itself sounded like a much better option to me.    They have a Sleep Eat Dive package that includes transport, lodging, meals, diving … and a stop to see the Dragons on the way back to Labuan Bajo.   Plus, unless i specifically requested a private room, i did not have to pay the ‘single supplement’, that was really nice!    So i changed my plans again.   It was a great choice, i only wish i had found out about it sooner so i could have stayed longer; but i had already booked my flight, so i was locked into that.

I booked, unbooked, and rebooked 1 night in Labuan Bajo at Gardena Hotel, a ‘garden hotel’, up a hill, away from the noisy street, with great view of the bay and sea.   Sounded good to me. 

The Komodo Airport is new and very nice, tourism has been good.   A short taxi ride to Gardena Hotel.   This is what i encountered.

These steps

plus a few more up to the Reception Desk

After checking in ... these steps

and then these up to my bungalow ... that's it at the top

i didn't count them, well i started, but as i ran out of breath, i forgot what number i was on :)   Definitely a workout; but the view was spectacular.   It's a HUGE natural harbor

and my room, with my own bathroom, fan only; which was fine

and, i got to experience the 'Call to Prayer'  FIVE times a day, including one at 4:30am

The Gardena Hotel agreed to hold most of my baggage for me until i returned in 2 nights.   That really makes a huge difference.  I found a nice place for dinner that night, and in the morning i walked around a bit.   They did not lie, it's a rather 'dirty' town.   But i will say that they have sidewalks so you don't have to walk in the street.   Something i've come to appreciate in my travels.

So, exactly where is Scuba Junkie Dive Resort.  
Here, between Labuan Bajo and the Komodo Natl Park islands

The next day the Scuba Junkie boat took me to spend 2 nights and 1 day of diving.   It was a smooth relaxing 2hr ride, nothing like the nightmare of getting to Raja Ampat last year.   The green lush-covered volcanos were spectacular to see.   i'm not sure why, but i was amazed at the greenery.   Someone later reminded me that they were just finishing up their 'rainy season'; and that they visited in October, and everything was totally brown.   ....makes sense, but i'm happy to see it green !

as we glided between 20+ of them, they were everywhere. 

Arriving at their dock …. SO much better than that noisy dirty town.   Already happy with my decision.

This was my room, called a Garden Bale (pronounced like Bali), complete with a fan and electrical outlets !

Community toilet and shower, which was fine; other than the obvious inconvenience of getting up in the middle of the night to pee.

The ‘high-rent district’ with a/c, were in the back, but we had the better view of the sea.

It’s a very strong sense of ‘community’ there.  Most people come and stay for a week, so it feels like family.   I was only there for 2 nights but still made many friends.  It was very comfortable.   This is the dining-common area.

I came over on the boat the a young US guy that is living and teaching in Java.  You meet such interesting people when traveling.   Also a man and 2 women from Hawaii, older, 50-73, and avid divers.  We did 3 dives the next day and i was in their group.

Our Dive Guide, was a young woman who wore a Hijab.  I was wondering how she was going to dive.  A lot of people wear a diving hood to keep warm, so i really couldn’t tell the difference.    She was a good ‘spotter’ too.   We weren’t in the water more than a few minutes when she made the ’signal’ that looked like a crocodile's mouth opening and closing.    What ?   It is called a Crocodile FlatHead, and it is a fish; but it does look like a crocodile.   They are not aggressive man-eaters.

By the time i got there, it was swimming away.   I followed it for awhile to get this photo, doesn't it look friendly?   But everyone else moved on (they'd seen them before), and since visibility wasn't very good, i didn't want to get lost.    Still seeing new things on every dive

She also found another one of the Whip Coral Shrimps, that i actually saw and got a photo of.   Maybe i am getting better at this !

a Black-Backed Butterfly Fish, accompanied by two RedFin ButterFly Fish

and an Oval Spotted ButterFly Fish

and .. turtles !

we were running into turtles every time we came around an outcropping of coral

they were tucked into every nook and cranny on the reef and blending in very well

even when you looked up, they were just hanging out

most were sleeping, but this one almost ran me over

another sleeping beauty ... their shells were so pristine

this grumpy one was really hiding under a ledge with a sign:   'Do Not Disturb'    :)

thankfully our Guide wore bright PINK fins … visibility wasn’t very good down there; and at one point we were all together and couldn’t find her.   she said she saw us, and wondered what we were looking for …. then she realized it was her !   haha   here she is 'being our eyes'

lots of Diagonal Sweet Lips, this one running with a couple of Midnight Snappers

i really like this Eclipse ButterFly Fish

and another new Nudi for me, Slender Roboastra

After each dive, we spent some time on the boat.    You have to do a ‘surface interval’, meaning stay out of the water, to get all the nitrogen out of your body.


The next dive site was Manta Point.   so we might see some Mantas.   i’m rather pessimistic (realistic) about these things.   i know that you can’t corral Mother Nature, and just because it’s called Manta Point, doesn’t necessarily mean we’re going to see a Manta.   We dropped down into some pretty strong current, and off we went, flying across the rubble.  i've not been in much current, and i am not comfortable with it.   i didn't know what to expect.  Yikes, i was out of control about the time i saw the first 2 Mantas on my left.   But i couldn’t get enough control to do anything but gawk in amazement.   It was BIG, and right next to me

Things were going pretty fast and i looked up, and holy shit, 2 Mantas were going right over the top of me.   i stayed as low as i could …. WoW they were huge!

i noticed ahead of me that something was going on with the rest of the group.   Fortunately, i was down in a low spot, next to some coral, and was able to grab on to something and hold my position while i watched.   One of the divers lost their weights—not a good thing in current!    The Guide and 2 other divers were helping.   It looked chaotic.   i was sure that the most help i could give was to hold on, stay out of their way, and not become another problem.... me flying through the air away from the group !

Eventually they solved the problem and we were flying again.   About this time, i began to relax and realize that this was ‘ok’, nothing out of the ordinary.   And, i saw Mantas!   And i started enjoying ‘flying’ through the coral, ....moving left to avoid hitting that one, and thrusting right to barely miss the next.

There were ‘ridges’ on the sea floor, and if you got behind one of them, the current slackened a bit and you could look around.  i saw another Diagonal Sweet Lips

and a SemiCircle AngelFish

Then the action started again.   See this rope?   There is a hook on the end, and the Guide secures it to some rock/coral, and whoever can, grabs on to it.   This way you can hold your position and not fly away.   Every time the Mantas appeared, she would do this.   i have no idea how she manages it, but she does.   This is not me, i’m in front of her, also holding on, taking her photo.   Everyone else is on their own to find something to hang on to.

So, we stayed here awhile with several Mantas.   Watching in amazement, as these 15-18+ foot 'airplanes' flapped their 'wings' effortlessly, and just stayed there.   This is a ‘cleaning station’ for them, so they are in no hurry to swim away.   i watched this one next to me for a long time.   You can see more in the distance.

This one was so close

After awhile, we let go and went flying again, until we came to another group.   The same thing.   So many of them, just hanging out.

i was watching them when i heard 'clinking' on a tank and turned to see one coming right over my left shoulder and then swooping down in front of me

 

 

 

i watched as this one was seemingly coming right towards me .... but it never moved, just stayed in one place.

It was a very calming experience.   At this point i wasn't holding on to anything, just kicking gently to keep myself steady, just as they were.

Steve took a video of of me and the Mantas, and i have added some video that i took, and compiled this movie.   You can get an idea of how many there were at one time.   And, how calming. 
And, now, after just watching the video myself ... i'm thinking you might find it boring, so i tried making it shorter.     That is so strange; because at the time, it was so EXCITING !

Here or at You Tube:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_pvWCxA1MU

 



What an awesome experience !    And, i didn't even freak out in the current; although i know that this was not a very strong current.    I know they can be so strong that they can rip the mask right off your face.  Not a good scenario for someone wearing contact lens.  So, i still reserve my 'reluctance' to currents.

Another 'surface interval' on the boat, some lunch, and then back in the water for our 3rd dive.

This was a much gentler dive, just slowly cruising the floor of the sea looking for critters.   A couple new Sea Stars

And i saw many critters that i had never seen before.  A Ribbon Eel has always been on my 'list'.   The adults are blue and yellow.   They grow to 3 feet, but rather skinny; and can live up to 20 years in the wild.   They start off as male and are black with a yellow dorsal fin. As they mature, the male turns mostly bright blue with yellow accents around the mouth and on the dorsal fin.  After it reaches a certain length, it begins to turn yellow and will develop female parts until it is able to lay eggs.
I saw the Juvenile.   The adult is still on the 'list'.

In the Lembeh Blog, you saw the Robust Ghost PipeFish that mimics a blade of sea grass.   This dive, we saw TWO Ghost PipeFishes that i never knew existed.

After doing more reading:  Ghost PipeFishes are a different 'family' than SeaHorses and PipeFish.   The Males carries the babies in SeaHorses and PipeFish.   The Female carries the babies in the Ghost PipeFish family.    So, i've mislead you, i apologize.

This is a Helmedia Ghost PipeFish, also mimics it's surroundings, the Halmedia, which is a type of algae.   It floats nearly motionless, their mouths facing downwards, sucking tiny crustaceans through their long snouts.   

The Halimeda Ghost Pipefish is the smallest of the species at only 2.5 inches.    They also have tiny red hair-like filaments covering their bodies if you can get close enough to see  ... as you can in this photo  :)

and a Velvet Ghost PipeFish, which i read, "is an elusive species that is rare to find."    Again, i had a great Dive Guide.    It's named after the velvety texture of its body.    This allows them to blend in with  the sponges where they live.   Again, also living head down.   They can be white, pink, red... and in this case purple-ish.

I love the way this one 'sparkled' in the light.

I also read that the Ringed or Banded PipeFish is not so easy to photograph.  They are incredibly shy; and it was the smallest one i've seen

 A beautiful Nudi, a Dark Margin Glossodoris

We also watched another BroadClub CuttleFish for awhile.   They all seem to look a little bit different, but that's what they do ...

this one changed before our very eyes

a couple new Fish for me … the Orange Banded CoralFish

and the Ocellated CoralFish

always fun to spot the beautifully bright colored Peacock Mantis Shrimp !

and … i’ve never seen a Blue Spotted StingRay, or any StingRay, with this posture before.   Not sure if he liked me, or was warning me, and about to attack.   I didn't stay around to find out

but it had beautiful blue spots and a dark mask

It was a great day and 3 great dives with Scuba Junkie.  Yes, i should have booked a few more nights, but i saw plenty, and i was happy.   I would return again.

More fun and adventures in the next Blog, ... still in Komodo !