I’m back on my long adventure for 2023, to The Philippines and Indonesia … I missed 3 years, as you all did too. And ….. I’ve already made a lot of mistakes, ...ones that i should not have made. I’m out of practice !
My flights: I had 12 hours in Chicago airport, from 7am to 7pm. I treated myself to a one-day pass at the American Airlines Lounge. Definitely worth the money! There were a lot of people in there, but not noisy or ‘busy’. Buffet table for breakfast and lunch, drinks, and snacks along the way. I loved it. Avocado toast w/tomatoes, parma, and prosciutto. All going great so far.
Boarded a 13+hr from Chicago to Doha, rather relaxed
a very short layover, then another 9hrs to Manila. It was gruesome and a lot more taxing than i remembered. I may be getting too old for this.
I thought the flight arrived in Manila on 24 January. So i had booked another short flight to Bohol, where Kevin (my Philippine Family) would pick me up.
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When i got to Manila i had a text from Kevin wondering if i was ok, b/c i didn’t show up at the airport ???? Damn! … i actually arrived in Manila on 25 January! … i lost a day, and booked for the wrong day, ...obviously missed my flight…by 24 hrs… and had to buy another ticket. So angry with myself, …that was a rookie mistake.
But I finally arrived. It was great to see my second family again: Kevin, Nadia, Viana, niece Pat. They have made major renovations. Built up and out, and more working being done now. It’s a good thing because another cousin is living with them, and 2 other young girls are also staying with them. It’s a house-full. Poor Kevin … with 7 females ! They do have 2 male dogs though, Sandy and Dash; both very well behaved and lovable. So i am getting my ‘fur fix’ … i miss Enzo.
I arrived on Wed, and started researching my trip to Camiguin Island (pronounced Come Again), on Thurs, with a planned departure on Sat. By the time Friday morning arrived, I had finally determined that the Ferry, which ran every day in 2020, now only runs M-W-F. It’s very difficult to get accurate info on schedules, and impossible to call or text anyone. But… I should have done this earlier! Another screw-up! This should be a good lesson for me, not to assume what was 3 years ago, before Covid, will still be in effect now. And, to plan ahead, which i don’t really like to do on this trip; but i am realizing that things have changed.
I went to Camiguin Island to visit another friend, Glen, and his family; and to do some Diving. Glen was leaving on Wed, so i really didn’t want to wait until the Monday Ferry. That meant that I needed to get to Jagna and the Ferry today! It’s now about 8:30am. The Ferry leaves at 12noon. Normally I would get a ride to the public bus terminal, then a bus for 3+hrs; but now there was no time for that. While i tried to throw my suitcase back together again, Pat helped me find a last minute driver. The trip by car will only take 1+hrs.
So my first adventure, of my adventures, to Camiguin started off with a bolt for the Ferry. I arrived in Jagna, frazzled. I had time to go to the store and bought peanut butter and a fifth of Tanduay (local rum 122php…about $3); ...i do have my priorities. By 12noon, i was on the Ferry for the 3.5hr journey to Camiguin. I sat on the sunny side of the boat and fixed myself my first Rum & Coke, and sighed relief and contentment as i watched Bohol/Jagna shrink in the distance. This is a RoRo Ferry, which means you can Roll On your vehicle, and Roll Off your vehicle. Comfortable, A/C (which is usually set at 60F), or outdoor seating. Actually, it's more comfortable than a 3.5hr airplane ride.
Upon arrival we had to do a Covid regiment, like we did at Manila Airport. Lots of info to fill out... on my phone.... which is always difficult b/c my fingers get the wrong keys. i finally had a young girl do it for me (as i did in Manila).
Camiguin Island is called the Island Born of Fire, because it is home to 7 volcanoes. My Hibok-Hibok and Mt Vulcan are the only 2 active volcanoes. The last eruption was in 1953. The highest point is 5,294 ft. It is a small island of 92 square miles. A disastrous typhon hit in 2001. It is predominately Catholic. Before each Ferry takes off, a prayer is read over the loud speaker. Most of the Drivers i've had rides with 'make the sign of the cross' before taking off.
Fun Fact I didn't know: It was a U.S. territory from 1898 until 1946, when it was granted full independence.
When I arrived at the Port, Glen picked me up and took me to their new home. It’s the second one he’s built there, and this one is way up the volcanic mountain. His wife, Apple, (no that’s not a typo), was there to greet us; and i got settled into my bungalow that they built for visitors. This is my view. That white in the sea is called White Island, which changes shapes with the tides and winds. You can take a boat out to visit, but as you might imagine… there is nothing there; but it’s pretty. I’ve been before, see 2020 Blog.
However, that first sunny day was a 'trick' ... we had torrential downpours for the next 4 days. They had a record 3ft of rain in the month of January. Another change, it never rained when i was here... before Covid :) View from my room the other days. I know, better than snow, but i was really hoping for sunshine :)
We took advantage of a couple breaks in the weather to explore. Apple and Glen have done an amazing job of creating a natural habitat, with local fruit trees, shade trees/bushes/plants, vegetables, several bunnies and chickens. It’s a paradise, that is in the clouds sometimes. Difficult to photograph, but it's all 'gardens' from my room a long way down the mountain, terracing and pools. Truly beautiful and amazing!
Unfortunately that little walk in a garden paradise came with 'Chiggers'. Almost 2 weeks later and i am still itching! I didn't realize what they were, so i continued to wear those clothes the rest of the day and continued to be infected. Another good lesson learned !
One thing i wanted to see was the work that a group of people (but mostly one man) has been doing to keep the tons of plastic that flows from the many rivers, into the ocean. He designed and built a system out of old tires to catch the trash. A year or so ago Glen tole me about this and i have been donating a bit each month for the work. I wanted to see the system. It works … BUT someone has to clean out all the trash constantly! He is trying to get the ‘government’ involved ……but it’s slow going. It is sad, most of it is bottles, they don't have any 'bottle return' system set up, so it all gets 'tossed'. Interesting, that right next to this is the Coke Distribution Site, but they do nothing to help the situation. They used to have glass, but now it's all plastic bottles :( There are several of these at rivers, not just one!
Obviously many hotels/restaurants did not survive Covid. But some survived, and there are several 'nice hotels' on the Island, and they are very well done. This is from Balia sa Baibai, (pronunciation?) ...it was beautiful and naturally done.
We had a great lunch at this Thai Restaurant, on the sea, with the Hibok-Hibok Volcano out the back; those are rice paddys on the right.
Glen wanted to try a Muck Dive with me. I had contacted my Dive Guide from 2020, Don-don; because he is the one with the EYES ! It was not a nice in the morning, but we were fooled into believing it would clear... so we went diving, reluctantly. The dive was good, but we surfaced to a torrential downpour and 2ft waves, that made getting back on the boat a bit tricky. ok, so we’re already wet, what’s the problem you ask? After you've been in the water for 40+min, your body temperature runs out of warmth. I was shivering, and so was Don-don; and now there was no sun to warm us up. They had hot coffee/tea, and cookies/fruit for our ‘interval’ (the time mandated out of the water before we can go back in and do the second dive). We drank the tea, ate the cookies, and cancelled the 2nd dive! Thankfully Glen has HOT water because i was chilled to the bone. I did not have enough warm clothes for this trip…with rain and no sun.
In spite of the rain, Glen showed me the sights and we even ate pizza one afternoon ... and sat outside ....
At Glen's, I drank fresh coconut milk/water and ate the newly forming coconut 'goo'. Fresh from his trees. Some people don't like it, but I do. They cut off a slice of the coconut shell, to make a spoon. It's the 'island way' :) Lots of bananas too, fresh ... so much tastier than what we can get.
One evening Apple fixed mussels with garlic and sweet potato vines. It was an awesome meal. Mussels are very cheap here. I wonder if we can eat sweet potato vines that we grow here ?
Each day i was tormented by the desire to dive, and the sane-side of me, not diving. It was really frustrating. I honestly could not believe that it just kept raining and raining.
Glen was leaving on Wed, so we had a farewell dinner Tues night. It was pouring rain, but we went out anyway. Amazingly, I had beef tenderloin, and it was tender and tasty. I wouldn't normally order beef, but Glen recommended it.
I was so excited about diving Camiguin again, because when i was here in 2020, I saw such amazing creatures, thanks to Don-don. My time was running out, it became clear it was now or never. So I agreed to go diving on Wed, ….weather be damned! I moved down to Beach House Resort & Dive Center. I chose this place because it was at the same location as the Black Beach Dive Shop, and Don-don was freelancing there. This makes diving very convenient,... walk out your door and you're there. It also had a bar and restaurant. Even more perfect, i don't have to try to find transport for dinner, and return after dark. So, ...there was a bar and restaurant, ... however, now they serve only breakfast, and they only have beer. Many things changed after Covid and i guess not everything gets updated. The owner, Adrian, was very nice, however, and the bungalow was clean, with my own bathroom/shower and a huge porch.
and i had a view of the sea for $22/night... prices have gone up too.
The first night i walked the black beach (volcanic sand), to Balia sa Baibai, at sunset, for dinner.
I had to cross this 'river', that cut through the sand, into the sea. It was daylight, not too deep, and easy to navigate.
...the walk back home, in the dark, was not that easy. i was carrying my phone and laptop. i slid down that steep embankment on the right, on my butt, ....but made it across safely.
The evening after my last dive, the sea became very angry ! Bad weather coming in ? Looks like Lake Michigan, not a beautiful turquoise sea. The weather forecast for Friday and the weekend was for more rain and
lots of wind. With waves like that, small dive boats will not be
going out.
I got a break and had 2 nice days (comparatively speaking); and
completed 5 dives with Don-don. It's not as much as I had hoped
for, but it was good. My plan was to do at least 5 days of diving; but with the weather and the reduced Ferry schedule, i decided to go back on Friday.
It was raining in the morning as i was packing, and then the power was out, luckily i knew where my headlamp was. I got picked up at 6am for the 8am Ferry.
I will share my UnderWater experiences and photos in the next Blog.
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