Nyepi is the day after the new moon of the ninth month, marking the beginning of the Balinese New Year. This year, for 24 hours: 6am on 19March to 6am on 20March everyone must remain inside. No working, lights, cooking, traveling, having fun. All roads are closed, airport is shut down, (including the big international one), no boats allowed to arrive/depart. The Day is dedicated to silence, meditation, reflection. Non-Hindu residents are not exempt, and it applies to all visitors as well. So, prepare.
The Ogoh-Ogoh Parade is held the evening before, 18 March this year. Fearsome statues are created in each community and paraded down the street, along with music and much enthusiasm. This celebration is to drive away Evil Spirits before the day of fasting. Expect road closures, business, restaurants close by midday on the 18th.
Around Matahari Dive Resort, where I stay, offerings to the Gods appeared in the morning of 18 March.
They include flowers, rice, young coconut water, fruits, fresh drinking water, an egg, herbs, handmade items, incense, other local items, ...and a dead bird. I asked about the dead bird, it is to signify that we will die and decay, sometimes it's a chicken, or a bone/piece of pig/raw, she said.
Around 5pm I noticed they were all taken apart and left there.
I did not dive today because Delon, my Guide and Eyes, explained to me that he would be spending the day in prayer. He was willing to set me up with someone else. I declined. I'd rather not spend my money and time with someone who isn't as good as Delon is, not only at spotting, but helping me get in and out of the water. I am a bit spoiled.
Around 6pm the parade started. Everyone participates. It is held in the larger towns, (Tulamben, which isn't really large), and the neighboring villages all participate. I could tell there was kind of a competition. Ogoh-Ogoh is evil, big and ugly. They obviously spend a lot of time/money making these. They are impressive.
The little children start the parade, with a small Ogoh-Ogoh. And the same bamboo structure to carry it, with compartments for each of them. Obviously adults are on hand to help. Some of them were really little/young.
It starts with the biggest one. I don't know how this is determined. It's very noisy and clanging.
Everyone is eager to get started.
I don't know how the little ones don't have nightmares. Notice how they have those long poles to hold the power lines up !!!!
They have to carry these things, and they have to be heavy. Notice the bamboo structure they've made. Each guy has their own little 'square'.
They are quite active in their maneuvers. I almost got run over with this one.
Another one.
The girls had a part also....younger...
and older ...they got to get all dressed up with lots of make-up.
This one has 4 arms. And these guys were an energetic bunch, and had to be 'reined in'
The last one
After the parade is over, they burn all the demons, in a huge fire. The last time I was here, they did it right down the street, in a small field just off the street. Now they take them to a big open area, with no power lines, and trees... and it's actually the cemetary... fitting !
They told us guests, that they would be serving us breakfast, and lunch. And dinner would be early, since they will not be able to have any lights on after dark. But we have to stay in our rooms, and we would have Wi-Fi :)
So now you know all you'll ever need to know about Nyepi, the Hindu Balinese New Year celebration.
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