Komodo Adventure - Diving

Why Komodo?   Why not?   I’ve always heard about the Komodo Dragons, big scary lizards beasts.   
The idea to visit was in my head last year, but no plans nor research had been done.   I had a couple of weeks to go yet, with nothing else in mind.    And I had been seeing more underwater photos on FaceBook, plus the area is known for giant Manta Rays.   So i planned to do a little diving as well.   After all, it had been almost a week since i’d been in the water!

So where is Komodo Island?    It's an hour plane ride from Bali, among a chain of islands to the East.

The plan evolved slowly since my winter adventure this year went way over-budget… due to my new addiction  :(    So i was careful about where, what and how long.   i changed my plans 3 times.

After much research, it got more complicated
—Komodo National Park includes the islands of Komodo, Rinca, and Padar
—The Komodo Dragon actually lives on Komodo and Rinca Islands; and there are several other islands of interest
—You don’t stay on other islands (the wealthy may) 
—Most people stay on the Island of Flores, in the town of Labuan Bajo and do 1, 2, or 3+ day trips, to the islands or for diving
—It’s a 2hr speed boat ride, or 3.5hrs in a slow (budget) boat to go see anything

I finally decided to spend 5 nights in Labuan Bajo, known to be a rather ‘dirty’ town.   Doing 2 days of diving, with a Dive Shop i had already picked out.  Then finding an inexpensive day trip to see the Dragons.   Then leave.

While i was at Two Fish, 2 girls suggested i check out Scuba Junkie, it might be more affordable and enjoyable because it was on the coast of Flores, in a natural setting, ... no town, no cars, no noise.   That in itself sounded like a much better option to me.    They have a Sleep Eat Dive package that includes transport, lodging, meals, diving … and a stop to see the Dragons on the way back to Labuan Bajo.   Plus, unless i specifically requested a private room, i did not have to pay the ‘single supplement’, that was really nice!    So i changed my plans again.   It was a great choice, i only wish i had found out about it sooner so i could have stayed longer; but i had already booked my flight, so i was locked into that.

I booked, unbooked, and rebooked 1 night in Labuan Bajo at Gardena Hotel, a ‘garden hotel’, up a hill, away from the noisy street, with great view of the bay and sea.   Sounded good to me. 

The Komodo Airport is new and very nice, tourism has been good.   A short taxi ride to Gardena Hotel.   This is what i encountered.

These steps

plus a few more up to the Reception Desk

After checking in ... these steps

and then these up to my bungalow ... that's it at the top

i didn't count them, well i started, but as i ran out of breath, i forgot what number i was on :)   Definitely a workout; but the view was spectacular.   It's a HUGE natural harbor

and my room, with my own bathroom, fan only; which was fine

and, i got to experience the 'Call to Prayer'  FIVE times a day, including one at 4:30am

The Gardena Hotel agreed to hold most of my baggage for me until i returned in 2 nights.   That really makes a huge difference.  I found a nice place for dinner that night, and in the morning i walked around a bit.   They did not lie, it's a rather 'dirty' town.   But i will say that they have sidewalks so you don't have to walk in the street.   Something i've come to appreciate in my travels.

So, exactly where is Scuba Junkie Dive Resort.  
Here, between Labuan Bajo and the Komodo Natl Park islands

The next day the Scuba Junkie boat took me to spend 2 nights and 1 day of diving.   It was a smooth relaxing 2hr ride, nothing like the nightmare of getting to Raja Ampat last year.   The green lush-covered volcanos were spectacular to see.   i'm not sure why, but i was amazed at the greenery.   Someone later reminded me that they were just finishing up their 'rainy season'; and that they visited in October, and everything was totally brown.   ....makes sense, but i'm happy to see it green !

as we glided between 20+ of them, they were everywhere. 

Arriving at their dock …. SO much better than that noisy dirty town.   Already happy with my decision.

This was my room, called a Garden Bale (pronounced like Bali), complete with a fan and electrical outlets !

Community toilet and shower, which was fine; other than the obvious inconvenience of getting up in the middle of the night to pee.

The ‘high-rent district’ with a/c, were in the back, but we had the better view of the sea.

It’s a very strong sense of ‘community’ there.  Most people come and stay for a week, so it feels like family.   I was only there for 2 nights but still made many friends.  It was very comfortable.   This is the dining-common area.

I came over on the boat the a young US guy that is living and teaching in Java.  You meet such interesting people when traveling.   Also a man and 2 women from Hawaii, older, 50-73, and avid divers.  We did 3 dives the next day and i was in their group.

Our Dive Guide, was a young woman who wore a Hijab.  I was wondering how she was going to dive.  A lot of people wear a diving hood to keep warm, so i really couldn’t tell the difference.    She was a good ‘spotter’ too.   We weren’t in the water more than a few minutes when she made the ’signal’ that looked like a crocodile's mouth opening and closing.    What ?   It is called a Crocodile FlatHead, and it is a fish; but it does look like a crocodile.   They are not aggressive man-eaters.

By the time i got there, it was swimming away.   I followed it for awhile to get this photo, doesn't it look friendly?   But everyone else moved on (they'd seen them before), and since visibility wasn't very good, i didn't want to get lost.    Still seeing new things on every dive

She also found another one of the Whip Coral Shrimps, that i actually saw and got a photo of.   Maybe i am getting better at this !

a Black-Backed Butterfly Fish, accompanied by two RedFin ButterFly Fish

and an Oval Spotted ButterFly Fish

and .. turtles !

we were running into turtles every time we came around an outcropping of coral

they were tucked into every nook and cranny on the reef and blending in very well

even when you looked up, they were just hanging out

most were sleeping, but this one almost ran me over

another sleeping beauty ... their shells were so pristine

this grumpy one was really hiding under a ledge with a sign:   'Do Not Disturb'    :)

thankfully our Guide wore bright PINK fins … visibility wasn’t very good down there; and at one point we were all together and couldn’t find her.   she said she saw us, and wondered what we were looking for …. then she realized it was her !   haha   here she is 'being our eyes'

lots of Diagonal Sweet Lips, this one running with a couple of Midnight Snappers

i really like this Eclipse ButterFly Fish

and another new Nudi for me, Slender Roboastra

After each dive, we spent some time on the boat.    You have to do a ‘surface interval’, meaning stay out of the water, to get all the nitrogen out of your body.


The next dive site was Manta Point.   so we might see some Mantas.   i’m rather pessimistic (realistic) about these things.   i know that you can’t corral Mother Nature, and just because it’s called Manta Point, doesn’t necessarily mean we’re going to see a Manta.   We dropped down into some pretty strong current, and off we went, flying across the rubble.  i've not been in much current, and i am not comfortable with it.   i didn't know what to expect.  Yikes, i was out of control about the time i saw the first 2 Mantas on my left.   But i couldn’t get enough control to do anything but gawk in amazement.   It was BIG, and right next to me

Things were going pretty fast and i looked up, and holy shit, 2 Mantas were going right over the top of me.   i stayed as low as i could …. WoW they were huge!

i noticed ahead of me that something was going on with the rest of the group.   Fortunately, i was down in a low spot, next to some coral, and was able to grab on to something and hold my position while i watched.   One of the divers lost their weights—not a good thing in current!    The Guide and 2 other divers were helping.   It looked chaotic.   i was sure that the most help i could give was to hold on, stay out of their way, and not become another problem.... me flying through the air away from the group !

Eventually they solved the problem and we were flying again.   About this time, i began to relax and realize that this was ‘ok’, nothing out of the ordinary.   And, i saw Mantas!   And i started enjoying ‘flying’ through the coral, ....moving left to avoid hitting that one, and thrusting right to barely miss the next.

There were ‘ridges’ on the sea floor, and if you got behind one of them, the current slackened a bit and you could look around.  i saw another Diagonal Sweet Lips

and a SemiCircle AngelFish

Then the action started again.   See this rope?   There is a hook on the end, and the Guide secures it to some rock/coral, and whoever can, grabs on to it.   This way you can hold your position and not fly away.   Every time the Mantas appeared, she would do this.   i have no idea how she manages it, but she does.   This is not me, i’m in front of her, also holding on, taking her photo.   Everyone else is on their own to find something to hang on to.

So, we stayed here awhile with several Mantas.   Watching in amazement, as these 15-18+ foot 'airplanes' flapped their 'wings' effortlessly, and just stayed there.   This is a ‘cleaning station’ for them, so they are in no hurry to swim away.   i watched this one next to me for a long time.   You can see more in the distance.

This one was so close

After awhile, we let go and went flying again, until we came to another group.   The same thing.   So many of them, just hanging out.

i was watching them when i heard 'clinking' on a tank and turned to see one coming right over my left shoulder and then swooping down in front of me

 

 

 

i watched as this one was seemingly coming right towards me .... but it never moved, just stayed in one place.

It was a very calming experience.   At this point i wasn't holding on to anything, just kicking gently to keep myself steady, just as they were.

Steve took a video of of me and the Mantas, and i have added some video that i took, and compiled this movie.   You can get an idea of how many there were at one time.   And, how calming. 
And, now, after just watching the video myself ... i'm thinking you might find it boring, so i tried making it shorter.     That is so strange; because at the time, it was so EXCITING !

Here or at You Tube:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_pvWCxA1MU

 



What an awesome experience !    And, i didn't even freak out in the current; although i know that this was not a very strong current.    I know they can be so strong that they can rip the mask right off your face.  Not a good scenario for someone wearing contact lens.  So, i still reserve my 'reluctance' to currents.

Another 'surface interval' on the boat, some lunch, and then back in the water for our 3rd dive.

This was a much gentler dive, just slowly cruising the floor of the sea looking for critters.   A couple new Sea Stars

And i saw many critters that i had never seen before.  A Ribbon Eel has always been on my 'list'.   The adults are blue and yellow.   They grow to 3 feet, but rather skinny; and can live up to 20 years in the wild.   They start off as male and are black with a yellow dorsal fin. As they mature, the male turns mostly bright blue with yellow accents around the mouth and on the dorsal fin.  After it reaches a certain length, it begins to turn yellow and will develop female parts until it is able to lay eggs.
I saw the Juvenile.   The adult is still on the 'list'.

In the Lembeh Blog, you saw the Robust Ghost PipeFish that mimics a blade of sea grass.   This dive, we saw TWO Ghost PipeFishes that i never knew existed.

After doing more reading:  Ghost PipeFishes are a different 'family' than SeaHorses and PipeFish.   The Males carries the babies in SeaHorses and PipeFish.   The Female carries the babies in the Ghost PipeFish family.    So, i've mislead you, i apologize.

This is a Helmedia Ghost PipeFish, also mimics it's surroundings, the Halmedia, which is a type of algae.   It floats nearly motionless, their mouths facing downwards, sucking tiny crustaceans through their long snouts.   

The Halimeda Ghost Pipefish is the smallest of the species at only 2.5 inches.    They also have tiny red hair-like filaments covering their bodies if you can get close enough to see  ... as you can in this photo  :)

and a Velvet Ghost PipeFish, which i read, "is an elusive species that is rare to find."    Again, i had a great Dive Guide.    It's named after the velvety texture of its body.    This allows them to blend in with  the sponges where they live.   Again, also living head down.   They can be white, pink, red... and in this case purple-ish.

I love the way this one 'sparkled' in the light.

I also read that the Ringed or Banded PipeFish is not so easy to photograph.  They are incredibly shy; and it was the smallest one i've seen

 A beautiful Nudi, a Dark Margin Glossodoris

We also watched another BroadClub CuttleFish for awhile.   They all seem to look a little bit different, but that's what they do ...

this one changed before our very eyes

a couple new Fish for me … the Orange Banded CoralFish

and the Ocellated CoralFish

always fun to spot the beautifully bright colored Peacock Mantis Shrimp !

and … i’ve never seen a Blue Spotted StingRay, or any StingRay, with this posture before.   Not sure if he liked me, or was warning me, and about to attack.   I didn't stay around to find out

but it had beautiful blue spots and a dark mask

It was a great day and 3 great dives with Scuba Junkie.  Yes, i should have booked a few more nights, but i saw plenty, and i was happy.   I would return again.

More fun and adventures in the next Blog, ... still in Komodo !

Tangkoko Nature Reserve, Indonesia

It was time to 'dry out my gills' and head for the Jungle.  Tangkoko is a Nature Reserve that has many endemnic species.  I thought that sounded like a nice break from diving, and it is not far from Lembeh Straits.

Two Fish Divers took me back to the mainland at 2pm and arranged for a Driver to stop at the ATM and take me to Tangkoko.    WoW, those were some winding roads, narrow winding roads through the volcano mountainside.   But we arrived safely, in a little over an hour.

Accommodations, or Homestay as they are called here, are very basic.   But i booked a room at the Tangkoko Ranger Homestay, with the entrance to the park, right across the road.  I had my own bath-shower, and a/c.   I thought a/c would be necessary considering we were in the Jungle; and i was right.   The room had an air conditioner, but it had difficulty keeping the room cool, so i asked for a fan.   i love fans, they make a huge difference.   I set up my mosquito net and i was happy.   There isn’t much to show, but this is the ‘entrance’ to the rooms.

and the Homestay

 

I met my Guide Frankie.    The general plan is an early morning tour and an evening tour.   The park fee is per day; so it’s wise to do them both in the same day.  In talking, he mentioned that 4 people were arriving and might join us.    i asked about these 4 people.   Two adults and 2 children.   i was going to be there for 3 nights, and i would be happy to wait until the next day if they wanted to go tomorrow.   Now that i’m turning 70, i’ve finally found my ‘voice’ and decided i should speak up.   He agreed.   As it turned out, they didn’t arrive.

One of the reasons i chose this Homestay is that was one of the closest the to ‘village’ … and the beach.  Maybe i could do some snorkeling there.    So i walked towards the beach.   This was a black beach; not dark brown or gray... it was BLACK.    I was so mesmerized by the contrast of the black beach and the white foam from the waves.

there were big roaring waves … there would be no snorkeling for this girl.

I spent a lot of time photographing the waves and the boys playing in the them.   A wave would come in and all you could see where heads.   Great memories of playing in the waves of Lake Michigan, although i don’t think they were ever that big.   Or maybe the black sand just made it more ominous

People, especially the young kids, are very curious about us tourists.   I always smile and say 'hello' and they always smile back.   They ask where you are from and how old you are.  These girls were very sweet

Homestays usually include meals since there is really no where else to eat.  Mine included free breakfast:  unhealthy white bread and something that was supposed to be jam; or processed cheese.   i had toast and cheese.   I could order lunch/dinner for an additional  $2-3   :)


i had also originally thought that i might venture into the village and eat there ….. but the only thing of interest was this big SunFlower.   There were no 'restaurants'

   

i finished the evening with the Philippine Tanduay Rum i brought with me; wishing my friends were here to join me

Frankie gave me a booklet to read.    It cautioned against the ‘gonone’,  and i quote “Tangkoko is brimming with microscopic mites called 'gonone' which love to squirm past your clothes and onto your body, especially the warmer parts including your armpits and crotch’.      I hated to do it, but in the morning, i covered myself with Deet:  armpits, crotch, wrists, ankles, neck and face.   Of course, long pants and shirt, wrapped my head in a shirt because i didn’t have a hat.   I was ready to go at 5:30am.

These are along the entrance wall

Those little guys are the Tarsiers ... more on them later.


We got on his motorcycle and headed into the park.   I am thinking, this is weird .. a motorcycle on a nature walk to see wild animals.  But down the brick road we went and our first stop was a family of Black Crested Macques, who didn't seem to mind the bike.    Frankie said there are 2 ‘families’ here.   My trusty TG5 underwater camera obviously was not happy being out of the water, and almost all photos are blurry.   Obviously i had some settings wrong.


They are all black

....with red butts; … in kind of a heart-shaped pattern  :)    (sitting pads that are very hard, very much like the calluses on human hands).  Adult females are easily recognized by their inflated red behind which indicates that they are in estrus.    

Here is a Momma grooming her ‘child’, … they are so human-like … or i should say, we are so ‘monkey-like’

They were cute to watch, as all monkeys are.       These are ‘wild’ monkeys, they are not fed.   We did see several students monitoring their activities.

I made a video.   Towards the end, you will hear Frankie saying something about a 'hurt leg'.   I had to clarify, the Monkey got caught in a trap that was set for chickens, not intentionally.   At least that's what i understood.    Even though they are protected, there is evidence of people still eating them  :(

The last part of the video is just of the sounds of the Jungle, ... including a large spider web, ...and a large spider wrapping up a Cicada.   or:  https://youtu.be/5Lk7qdMhhkc

A little further on the bike and we arrived at the ‘entrance’.   Here is a monument that was just completed 21 February of THIS year.   It celebrates the establishment of the Reserve in 1919…. 100 years ago.   With this declaration, it became protected.   The famous British anthropologist, biologist, etc., Alfred Russel Wallace conducted research in the park from 1854-1862, collecting 125,000 fauna specimens and identifying zoological differences, now known as the ‘zoogeographical line’.  This is the dude, and me

From Wiki-travel:  Tangkoko Nature Reserve protects at least 127 mammal, 233 bird and 104 reptile and amphibian species.   Of these 79 mammal, 103 bird and 29 reptile and amphibian species are endemic to the island.   Threatened mammals include the Celebes crested macaque, of which about 5,500 remain on the island, the Sulawesi Bear Cuscus.
This is my dude, Frankie

From here, we got off the bike and walked … ok, that’s more like it.   He pointed out lots of little insects up high on trees, how does he see these things; reminded me of my Dive Guides.   But he was born here, and grew up in this jungle.    There were these large white butterflies in the trees overhead.   he asked me if i had a kleenex.   i fished one out of my bag and he stuck it on a stick and began waiving it around in the air.     The butterflies came to investigate.

We walked this pathway for awhile then he went deep into the Jungle.   I followed right behind so he got all the spider webs instead of me.   I’m not stupid!    


The spiders were big, here is one with his Cicada catch of the day.    I have no idea what that purple spot is… i could not get rid of it, unless i used the flash.

It was a great walk, …hot and sweaty, but great.   The trees were huge, reaching for the sun.   We were looking for the Cuscus, and they are up in those tall trees where they feed on leaves and fruits.

And he found them, ...twice.   But, i could barely see them.  Again, i aimed my camera, or he took it, and these are the photos.   You can kind of see the tail.  ok, i saw one. 

We traipsed around more, and he found 3 of them in a tree together.   Again ….

Tiny little mushroom cluster among the fallen leaves

i loved these trees with their massive roots out of the ground

Frankie knew a lot, but i was surprised he wasn’t more well-equipped.   He was wearing shorts and no bug repellent, but borrowed mine.   And, it seems binoculars would be mandatory to see a Cuscus that lives 60ft in the tree tops.   That would have been really helpful  :(   Then again, this is Indonesia and these people live from day to day counting on tourists for their next meal; and this is Low Season.

We returned from our ‘morning’ walk at 11:30.   That’s over 5 hours!   and  … my back was killing me on the walk back down the trail.   i think it was because Frankie was walking so slow.   i’m a fast walker.   i was really happy to see that motorcycle.   It would have been another 15min !


I got back to my room and i laid down to rest my back and took a nap.   We were on again at 5:30p.   This time our goal was to see the Tarsiers.   Kevin took me to see them in Bohol, but that was a ‘park’.   They were ‘captive or semi-captive’,  free to come and go, but they were being feed, and easily seen during the day.   In the wild, they are nocturnal animals.

For whatever reason, we were able to take the motorbike all the way back to where you leave the path and enter the forest to look for the Tarsiers.    I felt a bit guilty;  as we passed people walking; but grateful actually.   It would have been over a 30min walk one way   :(
 
Into the Jungle we went.   This is Frankie following a ‘trail’ that only he can see.

One of the major trees here is the Strangler Fig.  The trees grow by wrapping around a host tree.    For awhile they live a symbiotic relationship, but eventually as the Fig tree grows, it slowly strangles the host.    Then the tree is kind of empty in the middle, with huge vines covering the outside.

This makes a perfect little home for the Tarsiers.
Some Tarsier facts:
-are called tarsiers because of their elongated tarsal region in which their tibia and fibula bones are fused thus allowing their great leaping ability.  did you follow that?
-tiny animals (their head & body) about 4 in
-weighing a little over 3.5 ounces
-ears and eyes are enormous
-tail is much longer than the body and nearly naked except for the last third portion of the tail that is tufted.
-nails like humans except for the 'toilet claws'? on the second and third digits of their feet. These toilet claws are used for grooming...strange
-nocturnal animal hunting for insects like katydids grasshoppers, crickets, roaches
-often cling to a tree trunk and use their highly sensitive eyes and mobile ears to detect their prey, then pounce with their grasping hands

We finally came across a group of 5 people who had already found the Tarsiers.   I’m pretty sure they live in this tree, so should be easy to find them.    There are 3 of them in this photo, safely tucked inside that Strangler Fig Tree.

We played ‘ring around the rosy’ as they moved from place to place inside the tree and occasionally out on a branch.  Everyone trying to get a photo with not much luck since they were so far away and the evening was growing darker.     Eventually everyone gave up and left … but not Frankie.  He wanted me to see them up close, and he knew they would be coming out and he could find them.   And he did.

...the long tail

... big ears and big eyes

... kind of creepy fingers and nails, so human like

So, Frankie redeemed himself with the Tarsiers

On the way back we needed to see the Tarantulas.   He easily found two.   I’m sure their pretty blue color is due to the flash.

And that was the end of my Jungle Tour.   It was good !

I had kept in touch through FaceBook with Okta, a young responsible Driver from our trip here last year.   I sent him a message and asked him if he wanted to come pick me up at 10am, and take me back to Manado to catch my flight.  He lives in Manado and it’s a 2+hr trip to Tangkoko, and then 2+hr back.  I said i wanted to give him the business if he wanted it.   He was right back with a big YES.   It was nice to see him again.  He referred to me as his 'mom'   :)

I made a reservation at Mel’s Inn for one night since my flight left at 7am, and i didn’t want to leave Tangkoko at 2am.    I felt like a queen at Mel’s.  It was a proper hotel, WoW.

I got checked in and took a walk looking for somewhere to eat an early dinner.    I walked a bit on the loud busy street, with little Indonesian food places, but wanted to get away from the noise.   I saw a sign with ‘restaurant’ and .....‘golf’ ??????? … pointing down a dirt road.   I took it.   I walked and walked and almost gave up, ...just up to that bend in the road, ...just over that hill.   Finally i saw a golf course!

It was a really nice resort named Ponduk Hijau.  It had lots of ponds full of fish you could order for your meal, with tables right over the water

but i chose the most expensive thing on the menu, Satay Tuna, it was $5 and it was wonderful.   But this Avocado Smoothie with Chocolate Ice Cream was more expensive!

When i got the bill , it said i was customer  ‘2 HOT AMERICANO’    hahaha

I was very proud of myself for finding this place and for not giving up walking down that long hilly road, seemingly in the middle of no where.


Okta, my driver, picked me up at 5:30a and took me to the airport, headed for Denpasar, Bali.   You gotta love Bali, it is so welcoming. 

This is at our arrival gate, it was a beautiful garden.

In the Airport i was greeted by Barong who moved his head from side to side.    
Barong is a  lion-like creature in Bali mythology.  He is king of the spirits, leader of the host of good, and enemy of Rangda, the demon queen, and mother of all spirit guarders in the mythological traditions of Bali

I had a short layover here.   But enough time to find my favorite Custard place that i remembered from last year.

Do you know of anyone in Kzoo that would like to buy their franchise?   I think they would make a killin’.    The are truly addictive !

 

Then back on the plane for a short 1 hr flight to Komodo Island.
" Komodo?    Komodo?   I thought you were on a diving adventure. "
You’ll hear all about it in my next blog.


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